Destinations

It wasn’t the cushioned wooden lounge chair, the thick robe, the citrus-infused water or the soaking pool looking out on the rolling green countryside that truly spoke of relaxation.

No, it was only when I discovered that all of the magazines were in Portuguese that I finally shut off my head and indulged in the unique sensory experiences offered by a spa in the heart of Italian wine country in southern Brazil.

The half-day spa package that I chose included a soaking bath. Of the four bath choices available, I selected the 20-minute “Bain Barrique” in what is essentially a jet tub outfitted to look like a wine barrel.

How fitting, then, for my stay at the Hotel and Spa Do Vinho, a gorgeous launching point for exploring an unexpected trip in an unexpected wine region: southern Brazil. 

How I Ended Up in Southern Brazil

When I lived in Chicago with my young daughter from 2006 to 2009, I made a concerted effort to do *all the things.* Of course, being a single mom, I made sure most of them were free, including Sunday wine tastings at the new boutique wine shop a few blocks from my house in the Roscoe Village neighborhood. 

It was a rainy April day and the shop was new when I ventured into Lush for the first time, so there were few patrons. There was, however, a very special guest: Richard Betts, a rock-star master sommelier who ran the wine program at the world-renowned Little Nell in Aspen at the time. 

None of this resonated with me then except Aspen — I had grown up visiting family in Denver, so I chatted with him about the connection. Though he looks like a literal rock star, Richard was (and is) the least pretentious and funniest person you’d ever want to meet in the wine world. So he kindly encouraged me to sign up for one of the wine classes he helps teach. Having had a few samples by then, I said sure, why not? 

When I got home and the warm glow of the samples subsided, I looked up the Court of Master Sommeliers and realized how deep I’d gotten myself. But I am a woman of my word, and if I say I’m going to do something, I do it. So I ordered the recommended several hundred dollars’ worth of massive encyclopedias and manuals on wine regions of the world, winemaking styles and history, service standards, beer and spirits production and blind tasting. 

I diligently studied the entire summer. I took notes and practice exams. I volunteered in wine and beverage stores. And I visited Lush every Sunday afternoon for their free tastings with my patient little girl, where we made fast and lifelong friends with a few fellow female patrons and the ladies working behind the counter. And in August I flew to Austin, Texas, for a day and a half of whirlwind training followed by a do-or-die exam at the end of Day 2 for the introductory sommelier course. I and one other person were the only two out of a room of 200 who were not in the business, and the exam has a 10 percent failure rate, so my palms were sweating. But by some miracle, I was awarded my pin on a sweltering evening by one of the few master sommeliers in the world.(Since 1969, only 269 people around the globe have passed the ridiculously rigorous exam.) I was all the more humbled that Richard Betts, among that rare few, invited me to sit for even the first level of the institution’s training.

That Court of Master Sommeliers training, paired with my writing and journalism experience, led to countless magical experiences: exclusive restaurant reviews; one-on-one meetings and tastings with winemakers and chefs, including Anthony Bourdain when he visited Chicago; writing assignments that offered access to the friendliest wine families and professionals all over Napa, Sonoma and Santa Rosa. I took my little girl on many of these adventures. She developed escargot tastes on her momma’s “eat as much as you can from the sample tray at the grocery for dinner” budget. 

It was 2008 by then, after all, and the recession had taken hold. I lost my job and had to sell my condo at a loss. My ex wasn’t paying child support, and I had to keep us afloat with my freelance income just as magazines and newspapers were downsizing due to a loss of advertising revenue. Amid that fear, worry and constant job-hunting stress, however, I was sipping Champagne made with the Méthode Traditionnelle and tasting wines paired with the first king salmon run of the season. It was quite a mental and emotional roller coaster.

One such magical opportunity was the chance to visit southern Brazil with nine other wine writers from around the world on an all-expenses-paid trip to explore the wines in Rio Grande do Sul, a trip organized as the region’s promotional group sought to expand exports worldwide. I spotted the table for Wines of Brazil at a Chicago tasting, pitched the topic to the fledgling Sommelier Journal magazine, and applied for and won a slot with Apex-Brazil.

I may have been well out of my league against the experienced journalists from Canada, China and Germany. I may have stayed up too late the night before my long flight to Sao Paulo and town car ride to Bento Gonçalves going bar hopping in Wrigleyville with friends. I may have nearly fallen out of my chair from exhaustion at our welcome dinner, which lasted until midnight and included countless rounds of wines. (I swayed a few times, much to the amusement of the somewhat sarcastic fellow from Vancouver seated next to me.) But it was an unforgettable experience … even if the excess of wine and food tastings blotted out so many brain cells.

Wine Country in Brazil

It was a stunningly beautiful morning on our first day of tastings as Ademir Brandelli greeted us in front of Don Laurindo, his family’s winery in southern Brazil, where he is director and enologist. The breeze was pleasant, the sun warm in a sky so blue it was almost unreal. A perfect day for working in the vineyards — and Brandelli’s father, Don Laurindo, was doing just that, as he did every day at age 77. 

Traveling south past the beaches of Rio de Janeiro and the cultural sophistication of Sao Paulo, you may think you’ve discovered the rolling green hills of Europe. So did the German and Italian immigrants who came to the state of Rio Grande do Sul in the latter part of the 19th century, seeking land and the promise it held. Each was assigned a lote (“lot”), on which future generations established enterprises far greater than their ancestors ever dreamed of. 

Although the latitude of Serra Gaucha is 29 degrees south, the terroir is actually similar to that of northern Italy. The early settlers found a temperate, four-season climate, enough elevation (2,100-2,400 feet) to ensure cool nights, and enough sun, heat, and rain to make humidity a problem in the summer. In the winter, below-freezing temperatures help keep the vines dormant. Today, in fact, the region does a brisk tourist business thanks to Brazilians from the north who want to experience cold weather. 

The vineyards and wineries in the Vale dos Vinhedos, in the Serra Gaucha region of Rio Grande do Sul, have grown and thrived from the hard work of Italian immigrant families who have owned and operated them since the first settlers arrived from Verona and Trentino in the late 1800s. Those families have expanded to include professionally trained enologists, consultants, marketers and lab technicians, as Brazil introduced its fine wines to markets around the globe. Over the years, the families and investors have purchased buildings and equipment — Vinicola Miolo, for example, poured $60 million into its winery operations between 1997 and 2009 — to make sure the world’s first impression was a good one. 

Wine growers have learned to fine-tune the vines. There is little snow, but frosts pose a challenge for wineries from April through September — the winter season in southern Brazil. Grapes ripen with low acidity and high natural sugar. Most growers now remove leaves from their canopies to allow the grape bunches plenty of sunlight above the damp soil. As they plant new vines, many producers are switching from horizontal to vertical trellises. They have also been taking steps such as green harvesting to reduce yields for better quality. 

These viticultural efforts have been matched by technological advances. Boscato, for instance, installed monitoring systems throughout its vineyards, at ground level and root level, to send back measurements such as dew, wind, and sunlight every 15 minutes. They track results from 10 microclimates, both for planning purposes and to take immediate action when necessary. Lidio Carraro has also mapped the microclimates in its vineyards; the producer used this information to guide its planting choices when it established new vineyards in 1998 and to evaluate the need for canopy management, pruning and fertilization. 

Brazil’s winemakers have invested in production upgrades as well. Miolo brought on global superstar Michel Rolland as a consultant in 2003 and revamped its facilities so it could take advantage of gravity when grapes are delivered, among other changes. The facility achieved ISO 9001 and ISO 22000 certifications — and visitors must wear protective clothing as required by these rigorous standards. The vintners have sent their sons and daughters away to school to learn enology, management and marketing. Now they’re anticipating the time when all their investments will pay off. 

The pioneering Italian families sold their grapes to larger wineries, keeping a little back for themselves. Today, many of the plots are still small, six acres or so, and family-owned. When it was no longer profitable to sell to the big boys in the late 1980s, however, some grape growers began to produce their own wines and sell directly to the consumer. This sparked a revolution in practice, education, technology, and organization in Serra Gaúcha, a region that accounts for nearly 90 percent of all the wine produced in Brazil—or about 5 million cases of fine wine annually.

Six producers in the Vale dos Vinhedos — Casa Valduga, Cordelier, Dom Cândido, Don Laurindo, Júlio Brandelli and Miolo — banded together to form the Vale dos Vinhedos Wine Producers Association (Aprovale) in 1995. Three years later, they applied to the National Institute of Industrial Property for an official appellation. Caxias do Sul University and the Brazilian Agriculture Research Company (Embrapa) Grape and Wine division produced the necessary topographical, soil, and climate studies, and in 2002, the Vale dos Vinhedos was the first region to be awarded Brazil’s “Indication of Origin” designation, recognized by the European Union in January 2007. 

Wines labeled Indicacão de Procedencia Vale dos Vinhedos (IPVV) must have been grown and bottled in the valley. Moreover, only members of Aprovale are permitted to submit wines for the required testing and tasting by both Embrapa and Aprovale. Founded with the mission of encouraging wine and grape research, conservation, and tourism, Aprovale now numbers around 30 member wineries and an equal number of associated members such as hotels, cheesemakers, and artisans. 

In a parallel effort, the Ibravin Brazilian Wine Institute was established in 1998 by a grape-grower organization, a wine-industry association, a grape-and-wine workers’ union, the federation of wine cooperatives in the state, an enology association, and the state secretary of agriculture and supply. This group addresses issues of promotion and marketing, technology and legislation. Finally, the Wines from Brazil organization was formed in 2002. 

The result of all this organization, investment and promotion in global markets has been the planting of nearly 30,000 acres of Vitis vinifera in Serra Gaúcha. Overall production leans slightly toward more red wines than whites. Red varietals include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Gamay and some grapes traditionally grown in Italy, such as Tannat and Ancellotta. The bulk of the white wines are made from Chardonnay, Muscat, Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. 

What the country has begun to share with the world is unlike most of the other wines coming from the Southern Hemisphere, where Brazil is the fifth-largest producer. Most are food-friendly, European-style wines with moderate alcohol levels, typically 11–12 percent, and smooth, soft tannins. Reds are often barrel-aged in French oak. The region has also become known for the production of sparkling wines. Casa Valduga, which began using the methode champenoise thirty years ago, has one of the largest sparkling wine cellars in Latin America.

Some growers are still small, family operations, served by cooperatives such as Aurora, the country’s largest, which brought the first Brazilian wine to the United States in 1988. Aurora began with 16 families in 1931; today, there are more than 1,100 families producing about 24 million bottles of wine a year under several different labels. Aurora offers education and health care to its members and shares research gleaned from its technological centers, staffed by teams of enologists. 

Other wineries have grown exponentially under the oversight of their founders. The Salton family arrived from Veneto in 1878, bringing several grapevine sprouts. Their company was founded in 1910; managed by the third generation, Salton owns roughly 750 planted acres and oversees nearly 2,000 acres held by its suppliers, producing 1.7 million cases annually. In 2004, Salton completed a gleaming new facility to house its winery, tasting rooms, laboratories, and retail shop. 

The stories of these families are the story of Brazilian wines. The immigrants have brought their Italian tastes and style and integrated them with the South American culture. Soft, balanced reds can harmonize with pasta, yet have enough backbone to handle course after course of salted meat. Fresh, aromatic whites are cool on a hot day, but don’t drown food in syrupy sweetness. Traditional Italian grapes are handled with modern technology to manage tannins and improve consistency. 

Brazil’s major producers are serious about improving the world’s perception of fine wine from their country, and they’ve put their money behind the effort. If they can maintain quality, consistency, and availability throughout the export process, they may surprise buyers not only with the polish and sophistication of their wines, but with the unique flavors from those Italian families who brought pieces of home to the New World.

Planning a Wine Tasting Trip in Brazil

Close to 200,000 people visit the region every year. Most come to tour the more than 30 wineries there, which are generally open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. every day. It’s easy to plan a visit using the tools at Vale dos Vinhedos. In addition to wineries and restaurants, studios featuring the works of painters, cheese-makers (including the Italian pecorino) and other artisans line the winding roads.

Bento Gonçalves is the nearest city, a wealthy enclave of 120,000 with hip clothing boutiques and a clean and quaint downtown. You can rent a car here (or you can contact a tourism bureau via the Vale dos Vinhedos website above). The major industry aside from wine in Bento Gonçalves is furniture, so look for locally made examples.

Of course, this still is Brazil, so along with your pasta and cappelletti soup, you’ll find as much meat-from-a-spit as you can eat at churrascarias.

Top Places to Stay, Eat and Drink

Casa Valduga Winery, Inn and Restaurant

Familia Salton Winery and Restaurant, plus links to wine routes

Hotel and Spa do Vinho

Don Laurindo Winery

Vinicola Aurora Cooperative

Boscato Fine Wines

Miolo Winery

Lidio Carraro 

(Please pass along a hello to Patricia Carraro from her Facebook friend Julianne Will!)

You will need a visa in addition to your passport to visit Brazil. See the State Department’s website for the requirements. Follow the instructions precisely to gather the necessary documents and allow at least three weeks to a month to process the application. Be sure to also check out our blogs on registering your trip with the State Department and getting vaccinated when you travel. (I was bitten on my hands by something in a vineyard that swelled and receded every time I drank wine for several years.)

The nearest airport is Porto Alegre, the capital of Rio Grande do Sul.

You’ll typically find someone who can speak English at the tourist destinations, and there is always at least one English-speaking staffer on duty at the hotels. If you wish to investigate hiring a translator, contact Beatriz Glauche, director of the local language school Window Centro de Idiomas, at windowbento@gmail.com.

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Although we strive to provide the most current information, bars, restaurants and attractions mentioned may close at any time, operate with a limited menu or reduced hours, or have takeout options only. We recommend checking individual websites for operating hours, updates, and social distancing measures before visiting.

The views expressed on this website represent the opinions of the authors; we encourage you to form your own opinions and confirm any facts.

Why did I decide to travel to China? Great question; I would love to tell you.

I traveled to China in March of 2019, over my 49th birthday. This trip to China was a Groupon Air-Inclusive Getaway. What’s that, you ask? You can buy tours that include airfare and depart from major cities around the U.S. from Groupon. There are some things to understand about Groupon Getaways, but they can be a great deal. Different tour companies run them, so check the reviews. I’ve done Groupon Getaways twice and had great experiences!

This particular trip was a nine-day trip for $599. One of my adventurous girlfriends asked if I wanted to travel to China with her, and I looked at the deal and said, YES! There are a few other costs involved, like tips for the tour guides, some additional excursions and the cost of obtaining a visa. I spent around $1,200 for eight full days in China. Just to give you an idea of what an incredible deal this was, as I look at those same dates for March of 2023, the cost to fly from Chicago (where I departed) to Beijing is $3,400. And that’s the cheapest flight. 

If you are curious about Groupon Getaways, in particular for traveling to China, I explain all of that in our 12 Tips to Groupon Trips to China piece. 

After spending eight fast-paced days as part of this group tour, I’ll share some tips you should know before you travel to China. 

You’ll need a visa to travel to China. Unless you pass through and will be in the country for less than 72 hours, you will need to get a Chinese visa. If you are traveling with a tour company, they will provide you with a letter of invitation that you will need to include with your visa. If you are going on your own, providing details of your booked flights and hotel reservations will serve in place of the letter of invitation. I found the application process to be a bit exhausting, but I figured it out with the help of several websites. It is nerve-wracking. You will fill out your paperwork and send it with your passport just 60 days before your trip. Yes, you mail off your passport! You can pay a visa service to do all of this for you. I filled out my own paperwork and sent it overnight — via UPS so I could track it — to the Chinese Consulate in Chicago. The cost was around $140, and I paid for a visa that was good for ten years in case I wanted to go back someday. I’m glad I did because I loved it and want to return! I found this website on how to apply for a Chinese Visa to be very helpful. Please verify your own information. 

Practice your squats before you travel to China. Seriously. You’ll find when you travel to China, many places have squat toilets, which is simply a hole in the floor with places to put your feet. You squat and do your business. The most important lesson I learned in my travel to China was to line up with the actual hole and not squat over the shallow basin because SPLASH! I peed on my shoes a few times before getting it figured out. When we were in bigger cities or high tourist areas, we often encountered Western toilets, and some bathrooms had a mix of both. You will want to take your own toilet paper or personal wipes as many places, even if they had toilet paper, would be out. You do not put your paper or wipes in the toilet; they go in a bin next to it. This is a good time to suggest skirts to make this process easier. 

Carry hand sanitizer. Many bathrooms also did not have paper towels or hand dryers.

Learn basic etiquette. This is not just true when you are traveling to China; this applies to any new country you might be visiting. Are you traveling for business? Will you be in someone’s home? There are many things you can read about etiquette when traveling in China, but two fundamental ones: Never wear your shoes in someone’s house and greet everyone with a basic “Ni hao” (pronounced “knee how”). Personal space is not valued, so if you are used to having a personal space bubble, you might find the crowded spaces uncomfortable. 

Get a VPN. When traveling to China, you will need a VPN, or Virtual Private Network, to access Google, YouTube, Facebook, Instagram or other Western apps. The Chinese government censors its citizens from accessing many websites. This index of blocked sites has an up-to-date list you can access. You have to set up and install the VPN before you get to China, obviously — those are blocked too, so before you enter the country, make sure you have one set up. I used NORD VPN with success. Here is a more detailed look at VPNs and why you should have one.

Watch for vehicles. You can’t wrap your brain around how many people live in China. The numbers still boggle my mind. When I was in Bejing, I almost got run over by mopeds and bikes multiple times because I frequently found myself in the bike or moto lanes. Sometimes they were well marked, and sometimes they weren’t, but I was often overwhelmed and rubber-necking at everything. I’ve learned to be better about this!

Download a translation app. This is one of the best things you can do when you travel to China. I was so impressed with Google Translate. I would hold it up to signs and hover over menus, and it would translate the Chinese characters into English words. I would use the voice translate feature and speak into my phone what I was trying to communicate to someone, and it would translate to Mandarin. Sometimes it worked flawlessly; sometimes, people still couldn’t figure out what I was trying to say, but it helped a lot. As stated above, you need your VPN to access this unless you download key phrases and have them stored on your phone, which is also an option. 

I was surprised by how many signs were in English. The airport, public transportation and many menus in the larger cities were very English-friendly. We did run into instances where people did not speak English at all, understandably. We did our best to pantomime and use our Google Translate. 

Carry wet wipes. Napkins are scarce. I carry wet wipes whenever I travel anyway. They are great to have on hand to wipe down restaurant tables, seats, the light switch in your room and, of course, your hands. 

Prepare to be noticed and possibly photographed when you travel to China. While residents in the larger metropolitan areas are more indifferent to Western tourists, many Chinese didn’t start traveling either in-country or abroad until the last few decades. However, with China’s economy growing leaps and bounds over the previous 20 years, tourism opportunities have opened up to Chinese residents. As a blond, blue-eyed Westerner, I was often sought out for my photo, typically with older residents who probably haven’t traveled as much or been exposed to Westerners as often. This is what our tour guide conveyed to us. I had a lot of fun with it. These exchanges always made my day and are some of my favorite photos.

If you are traveling to remote areas, ensure you are up to date on all of your vaccines and check to see if there are ones you should have specific to traveling to China. Julianne has a great piece on travel vaccines and how to stay safe from bugs your body hasn’t been exposed to. 

Don’t drink the water when you travel to China. Don’t drink it. Don’t brush your teeth with it. Don’t let it run into your mouth in the shower. All of our hotels had an electric kettle to boil our water, which I would then put in my water bottle. My trip was primarily in larger cities, and bottled water was readily available in most restaurants and stores. I recommend a LifeStraw water bottle if you travel to rural areas or don’t want to hassle with boiling your water. The LifeStraw filter is good for five years, and this water bottle is a great investment.

Take some common medication when you travel to China, especially if you are part of a tour group. I always travel with a handful of common medications with me. I once got hit by a bug while traveling in Texas that took me down in just a few hours. I was so thankful I had some Tylenol to bring down my temp long enough to run out to a pharmacy. I regularly travel with Elderberry gummies and Emergen-C to bolster my immune system and Pepto Bismol, and Immodium in case I eat something that upsets my stomach. I always travel with ibuprofen, acetaminophen, bandages and antibacterial ointment for blisters. There is a reason that residents wear masks and have since long before Covid-19. With that many people, simple colds and the flu can spread quickly, and the air quality is poor in many areas. I bought a mask but didn’t wear it. I would next time.

Smart shoppers negotiate. I’ll put it right here: I hate bargaining over prices. I only did it once for a jade bracelet in a little shop in some random alley. I paid full price for everything else I brought home. I’d rather pay more than I should than bargain with someone — I just hate it. I have avoided so many street vendors in many places simply because I don’t like going through that process. Tell me the price, and I’ll pay it. If you love to haggle, you’ll love China! They will chase you down the street if you walk away, lowering their offer. If that’s your thing, you can get some great deals when you travel to China.

Go to the park. If you want to watch residents living their lives, go to the park. Walk around and watch the moms, dads and grandparents with the kids playing and having family time. One of my favorite things about traveling is seeing how similar we are, even with our differences. Please be mindful not to take pictures of people’s faces without permission. Pantomiming “picture” is universal, or wait until they ask for one of you first!

There are a few things to know before you travel to China, but if you have ever been curious about this country, I encourage you to seek out a trip!

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_{The views expressed on this website represent the opinions of the authors; we encourage you to form your own opinions and confirm any facts.}

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Picture this: pristine beaches, otherworldly landscapes and iconic wildlife encounters await in the mesmerizing Galapagos Islands. But before you pack your bags and set out for this natural wonderland, let’s dive into the essential tips you need to know before embarking on your Galapagos adventure. We’ll ensure you’re well-equipped to make the most of your once-in-a-lifetime journey to this ecological paradise. 

If you want activity ideas, you can follow my itinerary by reading Hannah Logan’s exceptionally written piece on her website, Eat Sleep Breathe Travel. The tour I took was custom-designed by Hannah in conjunction with Intrepid Travel.

What to expect when you visit the Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands in the Eastern Pacific, located around the equator, 560 miles west of South America. Four of the Islands have residents, with the population primarily residing in San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabella. The main thing to understand is that the Galapagos Islands are not a resort community. Ninety-seven percent of the land in the archipelago is protected national park. The main focus of the islands and the community is conservation. Does that mean it is perfect in those efforts? No. However, the focus of the islands is the extraordinary nature surrounding you, not flashy buildings. You might find the islands a bit rustic in spots. The islands are gorgeous, gritty, perfect and imperfect. Like anywhere, you will find a variety of people, many of whom are enthusiastic to share their home with you and tell you why they love it. And some will be tired and weary from the endless tourism.

There are entrance fees for visiting the Galapagos Islands. These fees help support the national park’s conservation efforts and offset over-tourism. 

The Galapagos Islands website has a lot of practical information about the islands, their rules and regulations, and how to get around, which I found helpful before my trip. 

Essential Tips for Visiting the Galapagos

Money

Ecuador, including the Galapagos Islands, uses the U.S. dollar. I can’t stress this enough: You need cash on both the mainland and the islands. I could use my credit card in a few places in mainland Ecuador, as well as on Santa Cruz and San Cristobal islands, but most places are cash only. Most ATMs on the islands only allow you to withdraw $200 at a time. The ATM fee was $4.48 per transaction. I always travel with my Charles Schwab debit card; they reimburse all of your ATM fees, which in this case was $31.36 since I was withdrawing money almost daily. This debit card also covers currency conversion fees when used in a country with a different currency. 

Phone Service 

If you have a phone with a physical SIM card slot, you can purchase a SIM card on mainland Ecuador before you fly to the Galapagos. Clara is the recommended carrier for the islands, and there were several shops in Quito where you could purchase this card.

Clara does not offer an eSIM (as of my trip in January 2024). I only have eSIM available on my iPhone 14. Since I spent the week before the Galapagos in Quito, Ecuador, working remotely, I purchased an eSIM for another Ecuadorian network through Airolo; it worked flawlessly in Quito. In the Galapagos, I rarely had cellular service, though it did appear from time to time. Almost every restaurant had wifi, and our hotels did, too. I would spend that time checking in at home and posting my pictures from the day.  I enjoyed being offline — at times! When using an eSIM, your text messages don’t always work as flawlessly as they do at home, especially between carriers (my iPhone does not want to talk to my son’s Samsung phone). As a family, we use the Telegram app when I am traveling. WhatsApp is also a great communication app. I use it frequently to communicate with tour guides, taxi drivers and, of course, all of the new travel friends I met on my trip!

Wifi

As mentioned above, hotels have wifi, but it rarely worked well in our rooms. The hotel usually had a central location where you could pick up a signal. I sleep with sound, such as a TV show playing, and it wasn’t until I got to the island that I realized my Netflix downloads had failed. Thankfully, I was so tired from all of the hiking, walking, snorkeling and full immersion in nature that I didn’t have a very hard time falling asleep each night! If you are concerned about your family reaching you, ensure they have the hotel’s phone numbers for emergencies. If you have issues sleeping without audio assistance, make sure your music, white noise or TV shows are downloaded correctly. 

Remote Work

I would not necessarily recommend the Galapagos Islands as a remote work area for long periods unless you don’t need to contact your team very often or need fast wifi speeds. The hotel I stayed at in San Cristobal had Starlink, which worked well. I could even attend multiple Teams meetings without issue, but check with your accommodations about their wifi situation. The Galapagos is a beautiful location to work from if you can swing it!

Sunblock

Did I pack sunblock? Yes. Was it reef-safe? Yes. Did I pack enough? No. I live in Indiana. In the winter, I am practically translucent. Despite traveling to the Galapagos in the middle of January, heading to THE EQUATOR, I only packed 3 ounces of sunblock. The cost of purchasing sunblock on San Cristobal Island at the only shop I found was $25. Pack a full-size bottle. 

Rash Guard/Swim Shirt

The sun is intense in the Galapagos, and you will probably be in or on the water often. Covering your body with fabric is the best way to protect yourself from a burn. As a child of the eighties, I didn’t even use sunblock, so it was only a few days before my trip when I saw the words “rash guard” on a blog. My conclusion? “Ope, better grab one!” I’m so glad I did. I had a lot of time on boats and in the water snorkeling. My rash guard kept the sun off my arms, shoulders and chest. (If you want a short-sleeved style, Julianne recommends this rash guard.) Plus, all the cool girls had them!

Floppy Hat/Buff

At the last minute, I grabbed my son’s North Face floppy hat, and it was the best! The wide brim kept the sun off my face, and the chin strap kept it from flying off when we were zipping across the water on the boat. Also, I love anything I can slap a carabiner on. Now I just need to buy myself one. I’d also recommend a buff to keep the sun off your neck and ears. They sell a lot of cute ones on the island with boobies on them. (That’s a Galapagos joke; you’ll get it…)

SPF Lip Protection

Julianne takes good care of her skin with many sun-smart tips; I always forget this one. I packed lip-plumping lip gloss instead — which feels like fire when you have been snorkeling in saltwater, and your lips are burnt! I ended up paying $8 for SPF lip balm in San Cristobal. If you plan on snorkeling, use Vaseline or lip balm before you get in the water; it’ll help protect your lips and slow down the chapping.

Temperature

The temperature in the Galapagos is pretty consistent year-round, though there are seasonal variations (less rain, more rain). It is hot, and it is humid. When I packed, I looked at the weather but didn’t factor in the humidity. It gets hot and humid in Indiana. But after being in the Galapagos? No, it doesn’t. If you are a fan of hot yoga, you’ll feel right at home. I can now do hot yoga without passing out! You will shower a lot and be sweaty as soon as you leave your hotel room’s air conditioning. Your hotel room will be the only air-conditioned space; even that can be stuffy. I am so glad I took this little rechargeable fan to use at night when I slept! Even our hotel lobbies were warm. Make sure you pack clothing for a hot, humid environment. Don’t fight it; you can’t beat the heat. Do your best to think calm and cooling thoughts, and remember, you are in paradise. And paradise is hot. 

Clothing

Speaking of clothing, you will want reasonably sturdy shoes that you can easily slip on and off as you encounter sand, water, boat and lava. I loved these knock-off Birkenstocks. One of the other women on the tour had the same pair, and we hiked quite a bit in these without issue! Rayon or linen dresses, bike shorts, sun shirts and other fast-drying clothes are fabulous. I wrote the piece on what to wear to a hot, humid destination by packing all the wrong things for this trip. 

Water

With all the sweating you will be doing, you will want to stay hydrated. Drinking tap water is not advised. Pack a reusable water bottle and fill it with filtered water. Remember, the Galapagos is a national park that centers on conservation. Bottled water is not readily available, but filtered water is. Every hotel we stayed in had a filtered water refill station. I took my Mira water bottle, but if you are worried about water quality, I recommend a LifeStraw. Electrolytes can also help you stay hydrated; my preferred brand is Liquid IV. I add it to my water every day when I am traveling. It makes a huge difference for me, especially in warm environments. Don’t add it to a LifeStraw, however!

I drank a lot of fresh juices readily available on the island. Be sure to try them all, particularly the passionfruit! Everyone in my group drank blended drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. I was told the ice is made with filtered water and I had no issues personally. 

It wouldn’t be a bad idea to speak with your doctor about a travel kit with antibiotics and anti-diarrheal, especially if you have a sensitive stomach. 

One of my tour mates brought home giardia, a nasty little parasite, so use caution. And don’t forget your travel insurance; if you get sick, not only can it interrupt your trip, but you could also need medical attention. 

Seasickness

I had no idea whether I would get seasick. I’ve spent time on lakes in Indiana, but that’s it. I felt pretty terrible the first day we traveled between islands, a considerable boat ride of several hours. I took a half dose of Dramamine (anti-nausea medication) and ginger tablets, which helped a bit. If you are prone to seasickness or aren’t sure, plan ahead; eat a light breakfast and take a full dose of anti-nausea medication before you depart.

Packing

Pack lightly if you are doing a land-based tour and traveling between islands. I did not realize I would be dragging my suitcase down a dock, onto a water taxi, transferring to a boat, another water taxi, and then another dock. This is how you get around from island to island if you aren’t on a cruise or flying. Of course, you can fly from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz; however, part of learning about the islands is traveling by boat with the residents. I sat on one ferry next to a woman who lived on Isabella Island and was traveling to Santa Cruz for a doctor’s appointment. Imagine a two-hour boat ride every time you had a checkup! Also, wear your life vest on the public water taxis. If a resident tells you to, do it. Only as we were docking did she mention a recent boat accident involving one of the boat taxis.

Language 

Our tour guide spoke English, but many people I interacted with did not. Make sure you know how to speak at least a little Spanish. I downloaded Spanish using Google Translate so that I could use it without cellular service. The basics are please, thank you, good morning, good evening, excuse me, bathroom, with (con), without (sin), and anything in particular that is important to you. For me, that is vegetariano, clearly Spanish for “vegetarian.” While I’m not a vegetarian at home, I am primarily vegetarian when I travel. 

Island Time

Island time is real, but tours start on time. If your tour guide says you are meeting at 7, be in the lobby at 6:55. The bus driver might be late, and the ferry might not leave on time, but you should be ready to go when your tour starts. Restaurants have a slower pace than you will be used to if you live in the U.S. Relax; you are in paradise. 

Fitness Level

You don’t have to be a gym rat to enjoy the Galapagos, but you can have some very physical days. Depending on your tour, you could do a fair bit of walking, hiking, swimming or diving. Additionally, you may carry your bags up multiple flights of stairs at your hotel and to the aforementioned boat transfers. I accidentally took a six-hour hike up and down a volcano one day when my roommate and I ventured out on our own to check out Playa Baquerizo. I’m glad I spent extra time on the stair-stepper and treadmill before my trip. I also took my knee brace as a “just in case” and was glad I did. After the accidental six-hour hike and my improper snorkeling kicking technique, my knee was pretty touchy for a few days. When booking, read your tour descriptions carefully to ensure the tour matches your fitness levels and expectations. Below are just three examples of not-hard but somewhat challenging adventures: hiking up to a scenic overlook, with a surprise tortoise at the top; walking through a cactus forest on the way to Tortuga Bay; and somewhere along the path to Playa Baquerizo. It’s hard to see the path, because it’s lava rock. It was a challenging hike.

Sea Lions

Sea lions are everywhere in San Cristobal. You’ll see sea lions on all the islands, but San Cristobal is on another level. They run the streets, the sidewalks, the bars and the benches. I was unprepared for the vast amount of them and how close I would be to them. One popped over a rail and walked right by me at an outdoor bar! Keep a respectful distance; six feet is the closest you should ever willingly get to a sea lion (above or below the water). They are adorable, make a ton of noise, can get a little aggressive if you get too close and, in general, are irresistible. I watched them for hours and took no less than a million pictures. With that in mind, my last tip is…

Watch Where You Sit

Weird, right? Here is the deal: Sea lions sleep wherever they see fit, including the benches where you might stop for a rest. But they do other things on the benches, too. Be sure to check for urine or feces before you sit. I often saw businesses hosing down the sidewalks and benches, but look before you sit. 

I enjoyed my time on the Galapagos Islands so much; it still feels like a dream. Don’t forget to check out Hannah’s Island Hopping Itinerary to learn more about what I did on my grand adventure!

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I think part of the reason I had put off visiting Paris is I thought it would break my budget. Is Paris affordable to visit? Yes and no. It all depends on your choices and your budget.

Transparency regarding costs for travel is really important to me. How can I encourage others to travel if I don’t share how much things cost? I will always track my expenses and write about them here, even if the amount of wine I drank was embarrassing *cough*. I recently saw someone ask in a travel group on Facebook if $17,000 was enough for ten days in Paris for two people. Most people said yes, of course. You don’t have to have that kind of budget for Paris; I certainly didn’t! Even on my slim budget, I think Paris is affordable; but you have to make some choices.

I can’t tell you if Paris is affordable for you. We all have different budget thresholds. But I can tell you how much it cost me to go to Paris for a week. Let’s take a look.

Is Paris affordable to visit? A breakdown of expenses:

• Traveler: Heather
• When: May 18–24, 2022
• Duration: seven days including travel: six days, five nights in Paris
• Chicago, Illinois, to Paris, France
• Solo trip
• Budget-minded trip
• No rental car
• Carry-on only
• I am rounding my numbers a bit to adjust for conversion rates. I’m showing dollars when I paid in U.S. dollars, and euros when I paid in euros.

How did I end up going to Paris in the first place? I talk a bit more extensively about this in “Solo in Paris — Why I Went to Paris Alone,” but the short of it is, I was driving my son 3.5 hours to O’Hare Airport in Chicago, so I figured while I was there, I might as well go somewhere. Paris had been calling me for a while, so I researched Google Flights for the particular dates I had available — May 18–24 — and Paris came up with a reasonable flight cost. 

If you have never used it, check out our primer on Google Flights. I have saved so much money this way!

Flight: $0

One of the reasons people ask if Paris is affordable is the flight costs. I found a flight from O’Hare Airport (ORD) to Charles De Gaulle (CDG) in Paris for $551. I have several travel credit cards (Chase Sapphire Preferred and Capital One Venture). I used my Chase Sapphire points and booked the trip using the Chase Rewards Travel Center. I used 44,000 points for my $551 flight. If you plan to travel with any consistency, I would suggest looking into one of these cards, but do some research to ensure it’s a good fit for you. The Points Guy is my favorite resource for all points-related information!

I have free checked bags with my Citi-Bank American Airlines card, but I chose to fly carry-on. I don’t know why I’m so stubborn, but mostly, I hate waiting for my bags at baggage claim. Flights are one of the contributors to making Paris a potentially expensive location to visit.

If points hacking isn’t your thing, track prices in Google Flights. I often see pretty inexpensive flights from major cities to Paris. Paris is affordable if you have a cheap flight!

Ground Transportation: $190

My son needed to leave from O’Hare with his classmates, so instead of parking near or at O’Hare (a minimum of $10 per night), I decided to park my car at one of the South Shore train stations and take the train into Chicago, and then took the “L” train to O’Hare Airport.

Parking at the station is free, but I will warn you that they do sometimes have issues with cars being broken into or vandalized, so you are taking a risk if you decide to leave your car for a week. However, I’ve done it multiple times with no issue. The South Shore train ride into downtown Chicago was $9. We took the “L” train, the Blue Line, from Washington Station directly to O’Hare for $2.50. 

I hired a driver in Paris to pick me up from the airport (and return me at the end of my trip for my very early flight home). Cost: 60€ each way plus 10€ tip. You can take the train from the airport to the city center for much, much cheaper and it is a great way to immerse yourself in a city. I had a very early return flight, so I opted to spring for the round-trip car service since I had gotten my flight for free.

Gas to and from the South Shore Station from our home, approximately $25.

While I was in Paris, I took the Metro and bus. I bought five €1.90 passes. 

Public transportation in Paris is very affordable. If you end up taking a lot of Ubers or taxis you are going to drive your costs up, making Paris more expensive.

Food and Drink: $450

The first thing I do after I check into my hotel is find a grocery store. There was a Mono Prix, a small convenience store, near my hotel, and I stocked up on a few essentials. On this trip, I picked up fruit, granola bars and a gallon of water. I carry a water bottle with me everywhere and fill it up as much as possible, but this hotel didn’t have any refill stations, and the sink was too shallow for me to fill it. I normally get some yogurt or cheese, but my mini-fridge didn’t work. I like having enough food in my room for breakfast if my hotel doesn’t offer a free one and for mid-afternoon snacks if I need a pick-me-up.

If my hotel offers a free breakfast I will fill up as much as possible and skip through lunch. I’m all about using my food budget wisely. Like for wine. And dessert.

On this trip, I had my banana and granola bar breakfast, a heavier lunch and then a light dinner. I didn’t go to any of the fancy, well-regarded restaurants. I tended to eat near my hotel, which was a bit further from the high-traffic tourist sections. How you choose to eat in Paris can make a big difference in how affordable it is. I chose to spend a little more on the things I love. Desserts and wine! This wasn’t a tight budget for food and drink, I could have saved more but I wasn’t limiting myself. However, if you are traveling with a partner or family, this expense could add up quickly.

Remember, where you eat matters. The closer you are to tourist attractions, the more expensive the food will likely be (and less interesting too!). Get off the beaten path, step into neighborhoods and explore different restaurants. Food in Paris is affordable, or at least moderate in most areas if you get out of the popular spots.

Attractions: $90

I thought the museums and attractions in Paris were very affordable. The Louvre was €19! The trip to the top of the Eiffel Tower was €27, but I paid another €20 for a 3 oz. flute of pink Champagne. Musee D’Orsay was only €16. Versailles was €27. If you want to indulge a bit, you can do a dinner river cruise; conversely, there are free walking tours.

Hotel: $691

The number one expense that can take you from “Yes, Paris is affordable!” to “there is no way I can take that trip” is the accommodation costs. Accommodations are often one of the biggest expenses. My hotel was nothing to write home about. I stayed at Hotel La Sanguine in a single bedroom. The carpet was so old and dirty even I was uncomfortable, and I am not very fussy. The mini-fridge didn’t work, and when I told them, they said, “Oh yes, you are correct,” and that was that. It was still a lovely stay for three reasons: I was in the 8th Arr, which is 15 minutes’ walk from everything I wanted to see (Montmartre, Louvre, Eiffel Tower etc.), the employees were all just lovely, and most notably, the cost. It also had air conditioning! Even in late May, it was pretty warm in Paris, and I was so sticky and hot every day when I returned to my hotel for a rest. So it was nice to shower and lay in the air-conditioning before venturing back out. 

I booked this in February of 2022. When I look at the same dates that I traveled for 2023, the price is double. I benefited from booking when travel was still a little unpredictable because of COVID.

On that note, shoulder season is a great time to travel to keep costs down. Winter is even cheaper. You’ll see that Julianne and I travel in February a lot for the simple reason that prices are so much lower. Paris is affordable (or much less costly!) in shoulder season, which is April–May and mid-September–November.

A note on Airbnb: I could have booked something nicer, for less, through Airbnb. There are a lot of small apartments, quite lovely ones, that I could have rented. I am still struggling to feel good about booking unless I know for sure it’s someone’s personal space and not owned by a company. So many cities have housing shortages, rents are being driven too high, and it’s hard to know if I’m an ethical traveler when I book through them.

On this note, many individuals rent out their homes or apartments, and I want to support their endeavors; I just try to be smart about it. I didn’t have a lot of time to research for this trip, so I just booked a hotel.

Hostels are another way to cut costs, and of course, traveling with a friend or partner can cut down on individual costs. Since hotel costs have gone up so much since the last time I went I would either stay further from city center, or travel with a friend.

COVID test: $25

I needed a COVID test to get back into the U.S., and it was $25 at a local pharmacy.

Souvenirs: $250

One ring. Six books. One poster. Twelve postcards. 

On Facebook, I’m in a Paris Travel Tips group, and people spend a lot of money on souvenirs! Face products, purses and shoes. They must find that Paris is affordable for many reasons based on the number of items I see them lugging home!

I am working toward downsizing, so I try to keep my purchases to a minimum. That being said, there are two things I look for when I travel: art and jewelry. I happened to run across a little shop in the Latin Quarter with funky jewelry, and I got a beautiful blue stone ring. I also ended up in a few bookshops and fell into the allure of the books in French. I picked up three books about different photographers full of glorious black and white prints for my kids, a children’s book about emotions in French, a cookbook I can’t read (but oh, the pictures!), a book of quotes in French and a box of French Kama Sutra cards. While I can’t read the words on the Kama Sutra cards, the pictures are quite clear. I didn’t find anything to be outrageously priced. My ring, which I love, was $80, and it was the most expensive thing I bought.

Books are cool but heavy if you are traveling carry-on only!

If you are still asking, is Paris affordable? Here are some additional cost-saving ideas:

• Using public transportation more often and not hiring a private driver
• Fewer desserts and wine. That’s no fun, but it would have cut my expenses.
• I didn’t need quite so many souvenirs. I got caught up in the excitement of the bookstore.
• Hostel over hotel
• Travel in a less desirable month like February or late October
• Shopping at bodegas for lunch and/or dinner instead of restaurants

My total costs for the week were roughly $1700, and that was with zero dollars spent on airfare. It wasn’t the cheapest week abroad, but it wasn’t the most expensive either. Either way, I finally got to visit this iconic city!

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How exciting that you are thinking about going to the Gellert Thermal Baths! I’m going to start by saying that if you are looking for the history of the baths or information about pricing and services, please visit the Gellert Baths website. 

If you are looking for the details on what to expect, what to wear, what to take, and if you are expected to be naked at the Gellert thermal baths, you are in the right place!

I went to the Gellert Baths in November 2023; below, you will find all of the details that I wish I had before I went.

Let’s start with what you should bring to the Gellert Thermal Baths.

• Swimsuit: Swimsuits are mandatory at Gellert — no nudity.
• A towel: Your towel is going to get very wet, so one that will dry quickly afterward would be a good choice.
• Slide-style shoe: I took flip-flops with a strap between the toes. Mine were not easy to slip on and off.  You must wear them whenever you are not in a pool, sauna or steam room. A slide-style shoe would have been much easier to slip on and off.
• Water bottle: I took my reusable water bottle. There are fountains to refill your bottle. It can be quite dehydrating if you spend a lot of time in the hot pools, saunas and steam. 
• Bag: I took a bag to carry my things in since I was also carrying my phone and wallet. You can leave your wallet and phone in a locker or private changing room.
• Swim cap: ONLY if you plan on swimming in the large pool. You do not need one for the thermal baths.

What to bring for after the baths.

• A second towel to dry off with before you get dressed.
• A brush and a small set of cosmetics if you want to go directly to something else.
• A hat if you want to stop at your hotel afterward without doing your hair.
• Cash if you want to buy anything from the cafe upstairs (as of this writing, it was cash only).

Now that you know the basics, let’s get into the details.

Location

Gellert Thermal Baths sit on Budapest’s Buda side, on the river’s east side. If you aren’t good with the whole east/west thing as directional navigation, the Buda side has the hills, and the Pest side is flat. I used City Mapper to navigate from my hotel on the Pest side. I took the trolly, which drops you off almost right in front of the baths. The baths are in the Gellert Hotel. To get to the baths, as you are facing the hotel, walk to the right side of the hotel for the bath entrance.

Ticket Purchasing

I purchased my ticket on the website and was emailed a ticket with a QR code. I was able to add the ticket to my digital wallet on my iPhone. Open your email on your phone, and hit “add to wallet.” You can also purchase a ticket at the baths. If you are going during a busy time of year, or busy time of day, I’d recommend buying online to save time. I went on a Tuesday afternoon, and it was not very busy, but there were still plenty of people.  

Ticket Types

I bought a “cabin” ticket. A cabin is a small, private, lockable changing room where you can keep your things. There are also “locker” tickets where you get a small locker to keep your items, and you change in one of the changing areas. It was an extra $3 for the cabin, which brought my total to around $30.

The baths also have a spa where you can purchase massages and other services. I did not partake of any of the services.

Process

Once you go to the ticket desk and either purchase a ticket or have your ticket scanned, you will receive an electronic bracelet to wear throughout your visit. You will use this to open and lock your private cabin or your locker. 

They will then direct you toward the hallway leading to the baths.

I found my numbered cabin and proceeded to change into my suit. I took a bag to carry my phone, wallet, towel and water bottle. If I were to go again, I’d leave my phone and wallet in my cabin and just take my water and towel. You cannot keep your eyes on your items at all times when in the baths, and I did not want to take my phone in the sauna or steam room. While I generally trust people, and I didn’t have any issues, it can get very busy, so there is a reason to be cautious.

Amenities at Gellert Thermal Baths

Pool

There is a large lap pool surrounded by chaise lounges, chairs, tables and plants both on the main and second floors. This is a great space for relaxing, reading or quietly chatting with friends. I chose not to swim, but it looked very refreshing and relaxing. If you swim in the pool, you will need a swim cap. 

Thermal Baths

On one end of the pool is the first bath I came across. The temperature was very tepid, so I didn’t stay there for long. The baths all have seating around the edges, and most people were sitting when I was there, but there were also people floating and standing. There are pool capacity limits, but I didn’t see signage for that. Some of the pools are marked with the temperature. Soft voices are appreciated. Children under age 14 are not permitted in the thermal pools. When I was there, I saw no children at all. 

The area I spent the most time in had two thermal baths that were both really warm, with the steam room and cold plunge nearby.

Saunas

There were three saunas working when I was there. The three saunas are connected. You enter the first sauna, which is not very warm, and that is how you get to the other two saunas, both of which are much warmer. They are fairly small, allowing for a handful of people at a time.

Steam Room

One steam room was in operation, and I loved it. The steam is infused with chamomile, and it’s so steamy you can barely see your hand in front of your face. I found it very relaxing, other than when you walk in — finding a seat can be a little awkward!

Cold Plunge Pool

Right outside the steam room is a cold plunge pool. I would soak in the hot thermal bath, cold plunge, steam, cold plunge and go back to the hot thermal bath. I loved it!

There were several rooms and pools that were not working at Gellert when I was there, including the outdoor spaces. 

Leaving Gellert Thermal Baths

After you are changed and ready to re-enter the world, you will encounter a turnstile when you leave. At the top of the turnstile is a slot where you can drop your wristband, which activates the turnstile so you can leave. This process confounded a whole group of us! Take some time to walk through the lobby of Hotel Gellert on your way out; you won’t be disappointed. 

There are so many baths to choose from; why Gellert Thermal Baths?

All of the thermal baths look amazing, but I only had time for one. Szechenyi gets the most Instagram love and is known for its parties and stunning architecture. Rudas has a rooftop pool offering views of the Danube, which was intriguing. There was just something about Gellert that pulled me in. Maybe it is the fact that it’s a little less glitzy. It is known to have more residents and a little less of a touristy vibe.

The Gellert Baths are for you if you are looking for a more authentic experience without the glitz and glam in what is still a positively stunning setting.

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_{Although we strive to provide the most current information, we recommend checking individual websites for operating hours and updates before visiting.}

_{The views expressed on this website represent the opinions of the authors; we encourage you to form your own opinions and confirm any facts.}

_{This post may contain affiliate links. If you shop or make a reservation through these links, we may make a small commission (for which we are very grateful!) at no extra cost to you. Not all links are affiliates, and we only suggest products and places we have experienced.}

Ireland is a favorite destination for all types of travelers, but for solo female travelers, it is a great place to start. It doesn’t matter if you are a fresh-faced twenty-something or beyond middle-aged; there is something to do for every travel style, making Ireland one of my top picks for first-time adventurers as well as seasoned travelers. I took my first visit to Ireland with a friend in 2016 through Groupon Getaways, and went again solo in the fall of 2021.

Ireland is great for all travel types.

While I do think it’s a particularly friendly place for solo female travelers, I never hesitate to recommend it to anyone looking for a good adventure. Ireland has so much to offer everyone. These are just my top 14!

The people — When I talk about the friendliness of the Irish I don’t want to paint a stereotype or false picture. Generally, people are lovely and welcoming, helpful and kind. You’ll find more than one person who wants to sit and chat and tell stories. I’ve had bartenders sing me Frank Sinatra tunes, women who want to swap tattoo stories, and older men talk politics and history. From taxi drivers to bar patrons, I’ve been engaged in lovely, spirited, somber and hilarious conversations. I love it! But remember, these are just people living their lives with the same joys and struggles you experience in sometimes over-touristed areas. Always be respectful, meet people where they are and be courteous. 

Safety — No country is 100 percent safe from crime, so always be diligent with your safety. I have been to Ireland twice, once with a friend and once on my own. I traveled to seven cities and drove 1,100 miles solo, and only met lovely, welcoming people. I went on two dates on my last trip, and I felt very comfortable! I walked alone at night several times but always in well-lit, well-populated areas. If you are going out in the Temple Bar district in Dublin, be smart, just like you would in any larger city. Watch your drink, don’t over-indulge and keep an eye on your belongings. 

History — Ireland has a deep history, and the people who live there know it well. If you are a history buff or love a good political debate, stop into any local pub and you can have a rousing conversation about both. Before my second trip, I took the time to dig into the history of Ireland a bit more so I at least had a general understanding of their timeline, struggles and triumphs.

Peat — I still dream about the smell of peat in a fire. If you go to Ireland in the cooler months, every bar, restaurant, hotel and I’m sure home will have a fire going with peat. It’s such a lovely, homey, warm smell, and I wish I could bottle it and bring it with me everywhere!

Activities — Ireland has no shortage of outdoor activities in this lush, rugged landscape. During my most recent trip in September of 2021, I spent most of my time outside. There are so many opportunities to bike, hike and swim at various points. My favorite hike was the Howth Cliff Walk, just south of Dublin. My favorite bike trip was around the Dingle Peninsula courtesy of Dingle Electric Bike Experience. And my favorite swim was at the Secret Tiny Beach (Ronan’s Beach) at the Howth Cliff Walk. I also hiked the Gap of Dunloe and wish I had gone on my own and not as part of a tour. The best part of the tour was a boat ride across three lakes in Killarney National Park, conducted by Gap of Dunloe Traditional Boat Tours. Donal was our tour guide, a third-generation guide with vast knowledge of the area and a rakish grin. I highly recommend it. You can book the boat tour independently or as part of other packages available on their site. 

Nightlife — Walk into almost any pub in Ireland and it will be full of people having a good time. The Temple Bar area in Dublin is known for its nightlife and is often a highlight for tourists…but I love getting off the beaten path and finding locals who are watching a soccer match or celebrating an event. In 2016 my friend and I went in search of a bar in which to watch the U.S. Super Bowl and there it was, on a giant big screen in a little town called Carrick-On-Shannon. There was also a post-wedding reception happening! We had a fantastic time! (And watched very little of the game.) I really love The Long Hall in Dublin. South of Temple Bar by .34 of a mile (600 meters), this local favorite is gorgeous and fun! 

Walkability — For the able-bodied, Irish cities are especially walkable. In Dublin specifically, you can do the city center, both north and south of the river, easily. For longer jaunts, the bus system is efficient and well-marked, and I used it frequently when in Dublin. When I was driving on my 12-day tour, I would park my car and walk the city center. Just make sure you LOOK LEFT before crossing the street. This is handily printed on many streets in Dublin!

Language — For English speakers, Ireland is a very easy country. Each part of the country has a slightly different accent. I found it amusing how some of the Dublin’ers I met said they had “no accent” even when I was clearly having a hard time catching every word. I am very slightly hard of hearing (especially in noisy restaurants or bars), so in some areas, I did have to have people repeat themselves. The west coast has a particularly lyrical cadence that is both lovely and a little harder for me to catch.

Accommodations — No matter where you go in Ireland, you have many options regarding the type of place you want to stay. In my detailed itinerary you can see exactly where I stayed and how much it cost. I primarily book through booking.com. I have stayed in three types of accommodations in Ireland. 

1. Hotels: Little explanation needed here! I have stayed in a couple, and they vary a lot by price and comfort. My favorite was the Heights Hotel in Killarney! I loved everything about this hotel from the quality of the food to the extra fluffy robe in the closet. 
2. Bed and breakfasts: These varied from a small (240 sq ft) room to a well-sized suite. These are rooms tucked into one building, more like bedrooms in a house than rooms in a hotel. I had my own private bathroom (en-suite), in-room amenities in most of them (coffee, water kettle, iron, fan), and then breakfast was offered in a small dining room in the morning. Breakfast was usually an added $8–10 euros, but for the convenience alone was totally worth it.
3. Castles! On my first trip to Ireland, I booked a Groupon Getaway and stayed in castles for six nights. I didn’t even know then, that ONE NIGHT in peak season at one of the castles was almost the cost of my entire trip (airfare, rental car and accommodations included)! That being said, if you can find a good deal, staying in a castle 100 percent makes you feel like a princess. 

Nature — I think I said “holy $%&*” about 1,000 times on both trips to Ireland. It truly is a magical place. One trip was in February during a cold snap, and it was still beautiful, even when it was cold, rainy, and gray. My second trip was in August, and it was perfect. Rolling green hills, wildflowers, steep cliffs and the green-blue ocean crashing the shoreline below. It’s a photographer’s dream and a nature lover’s utopia. Stop at any beach you come across; they all feel unique in their vibe and the landscape!

Architecture — One of my favorite parts of travel is exploring architecture, particularly in countries that are so much older than my own, and seeing the differences. When I first started traveling internationally there was so little I knew about the world. Not only exploring architectural styles but also roofing and window choices based on the climate, resources and history. It’s so fascinating! What I loved so much in Ireland were all the painted doors. So much of the United States is gray and beige; I was struck by the colors! I think I took 100 door pictures on my first visit!

Sheep! — Ok, ok, this might not amuse you as much as it did me, but as someone who has only seen sheep intermittently on farms or at our local zoo, seeing sheep everywhere brought me so much joy. I love their little painted behinds and stopped to talk to them at every opportunity. I swear I heard one say “dang tourists”…

Arts and culture — While I haven’t spent a lot of time discovering the arts and culture of every city I visited in Ireland, I particularly liked Waterford! Not only are they known for their Waterford Crystal, but they also have an annual mural festival called Waterford Walls. If you love street art, Waterford takes the prize for putting gorgeous murals all over town. 

Solo-friendly — I spent 12 days on my own and covering 1100 km. I spent three days in Dublin, then traversed the island by car. There were times I was exhausted, scared, and wanted to cry. It IS stressful learning to drive on the opposite side of the road and navigate by yourself, but YES YOU CAN DO IT! Most of the time I was elated, excited and in awe of this beautiful country. All along the way, I met strangers and new friends who were happy to lend an ear, help me out, chat, offer suggestions, and treat me like an old pal.

Summary: I highly recommend Ireland to any traveler, but for the solo female traveler, you can’t go wrong with Ireland.

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Was it really a necessary work trip? Maybe not. But when one of my former clients, who is based in Milan, Italy, said that yes, January would be a good time to visit them and tour their facilities, I decided that it was necessary to book a flight. After all, I’d never met them in person.

Thus began my solo trip to Milan. I spent a day with my lovely clients at their offices north of the city, and they met me in Milan for lunch one afternoon. But otherwise, I was alone to explore the world’s fashion capital, home to the Duomo and da Vinci’s Last Supper. There is such an array of wonderful things to do in Milan, even in the off-season.

Top Things to Do in Milan

Day One

Buon giorno, Italy! I got up at 7:30 a.m. Denver time on a Wednesday and didn’t get into bed until 1 p.m. Denver time on a Thursday (9 p.m. Milano time). Trips to Europe always come with a hefty price in the form of jet lag. At least the weather is similar in January. (Though humidity and a lack of sun in Italy can make 40 degrees feel much, much colder than it does in Denver.)

My flight with United Airlines was smooth: It was about four hours to Newark, then eight hours to Milan Malpensa Airport. I arrived at 8:30 a.m. local time. I then took the train to Milan Central Station (a gorgeous marvel in itself), an hourlong ride that cost just a few euros. 

Upon exiting, I strode confidently … in the wrong direction. Not wanting to be an obvious target for the people lingering around the outside of the station, I circled around the huge building before setting out the right way. Drizzle, roundabouts, cobblestones and uncertainty about my map didn’t detract from the charm of being back in Europe. 

It was probably longer than most people would consider an acceptable walk, but I finally tracked down my stay, the affordable Hotel Sanpi Milano. I was excited to explore the city’s art, architecture and cuisine, and my itinerary was packed. So after settling in, I headed out on foot to explore Milan. 

La Scala

My first stop was La Scala, one of the most famous opera houses in the world. This brilliant gem in the city center was built in 1776–78. I booked a guided tour of the museum and the theater, which included the foyer, the royal box, the historic boxes and even backstage to see the stage’s (obviously more modern) mechanized movement system. Purchase your ticket in advance and arrive promptly.

Museo Teatrale alla Scala

After the tour, I wandered around the city, taking in the sights and sounds. I was back at the hotel before dark, which arrives at around 5 p.m. in January.

Day Two

Can I tell you how much I love European breakfasts? My hotel offered a complimentary spread with fresh greens, meats and cheeses (including Brie and little turkey croissant sandwiches), crates of fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, sautéed mushrooms, hard-boiled eggs, yogurts and muesli, and a huge assortment of croissants con chocolate and custards and breads and sweets. Plus all the special juices, sparkling water, cappuccino and champagne you can drink. 

There was pleasant jazz on the speakers, and people outside passing between old stone buildings, their ornate balconies draped with vines and flowers. It was beautiful. I would not need lunch, and this all came at a nightly cost well below your average Hampton Inn.

Breakfast was served until 11, and there were many, many people who arrived even this late to start their day. Thank you, fellow travelers, for not making me feel like a slug for not being out the door at 6:30 a.m., even though I was oddly awake then. Jet lag.

Milan Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour

I started the day with a hop-on, hop-off bus tour. This is my favorite way to get acclimated in a new city. For one affordable price — typically much less than Lyfts, taxis or even trains — you have transportation to all of the tourist destinations in the area, plus a guided tour. During the course of the day, I learned about a tiny median in a busy highway that preserves the remains of a church, as well as why and how the city walls were constructed centuries ago.

I also learned that the bus runs relatively infrequently on weekdays, so you may lose a finger or toe waiting for it if it’s cold. Watch the schedule, or ride on weekends. 

Milan Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour

I rode the bus to the point furthest from my hotel, where I learned that tickets to see da Vinci’s The Last Supper sell out far in advance. (And I had tickets for everything but.) To my good fortune, however, I stopped by a bookmaker’s little shop while waiting for the adjacent Santa Maria della Grazie to open to the public at 3, and he shared with me that if you arrive at the ticket office at 7:55 a.m., they sell the day’s cancellations to those in line. Thank you, kind bookmaker! (I also bought a handmade notebook, of course.)

Basilica of Santa Maria della Grazie

The Basilica of Santa Maria della Grazie, adjacent to the museum housing The Last Supper, is a massive marvel of Renaissance art and construction. It’s on the UNESCO World Heritage List; step inside and you’ll understand why. It was one of my favorite unplanned things to do in Milan.

Basilica of Santa Maria della Grazie

After my visit, I had a bit of a long, cold wait for the final Hop-On, Hop-Off bus of the evening. But school had just let out nearby, so I enjoyed watching the sweet kiddos and their parents go about everyday life across the street from one of da Vinci’s masterpieces. 

Other things that I discovered on my first full day in Milan: To be Milanese in the city center, it seemed you must walk directly where you want to, whether it be all over the sidewalk, straight at a person attempting to navigate around a shopping rack, or into oncoming traffic. Try to keep up with the pace to avoid slowing down people trying to get to work.

I always dress to blend in as much as possible and learn greetings in the language of the place where I’m visiting. But if your attempt at an Italian greeting is too good, follow up quickly with a “Parla Ingelse?” or you will not understand anything that the kind signore just said about the hair dryer you’re attempting to buy in the neighborhood electronics store. (This is the trip during which I broke down and bought a hairdryer that works in Europe, by the way. If you wonder why, see my piece on adapters, converters and transformers.)

Restaurants in the city center may bring you lots of “house bread” unasked for at lunch and then charge you for it. Not great. But your hotel may bring you little sandwiches and chips free with your glass of wine in the evening. Really great! I had “dinner” in the lobby. I loved that the lobby bartender was able to whistle along to the jazz in perfect harmony. And with that, I went to bed ridiculously early.

Day Three

Bellissima! A walk through the Indro Montanelli Gardens park in the neighborhood near my hotel was a lovely way to start a sunny Sunday day. There were Italian bambinos shouting on the playground. Dogs barking at one another in Italian at the dog park. People jogging, and a little live music — someone playing Wham! — in the background. Buon giorno!

Church of San Marco

I grew up Catholic, so I like to go to Mass in different countries. The words of the Mass are the same worldwide, so even when you hear them in another language, you can follow along. Yet there are still differences in people and habits, which I find interesting. I also love to see people being their ordinary selves outside of tourist settings, and to be able to admire the interior of a church for an hour. So I visited the Church of San Marco, dating from the 13th century and still in use.

(By the way: Even if you are not Catholic, you’re welcome to attend services. I’d recommend sitting toward the back so that you can observe when people stand, sit and kneel and join in. The only thing you should not do is go to Communion; just sit in your pew while everyone lines up. It’s perfectly acceptable!)

I had noted that the Milanese love their dogs. They were everywhere, walking with their owners and wearing fancy coats. There were at least three in church that day, including a tiny pup in a purse carried by a fancy lady with high heels, a brisk stride and wonderful perfume.

I wanted to stay after the service and investigate the church further. But I still don’t know what the man who was closing up the church after Mass was saying. Was I not supposed to take photos? Stand on the edge of the altar? Was I supposed to leave immediately? Maybe I looked Italian, so he thought I was just being defiant? 

Whatever the case, he was pretty angry. For those who normally interact with tourists: Yelling more loudly at someone in your native language when they don’t respond the first time is unlikely to help. 

Brera Market

I followed the Sunday morning crowd into the sunshine and through the lively Brera Market, where you can find flowers, foods, furniture and other antiques. I did not realize how much I rely on communicating in Spanish while traveling until I tried to shop. Most of the vendors at the tables there had a very, very small grasp of English, and my Italian only extended to greetings and thanks. 

Fortunately, I’m adept at talking with my hands — thanks both to teaching ESL and to a lifelong habit! — and with that and some Spanish, I managed to get my mom a really cool gift. I didn’t plan to visit the market — it was sheer luck to wander into it after Mass — but again it was one of my favorite things to do in Milan.

Brera Market

I thought I’d walk next to Castello-Sfortesco. But navigating the heart of old cities without wifi is harder than you think. And when you find yourself in a plaza in Milan, which is often, all the signs name the plaza. Not the surrounding streets. You will have to walk at least to the next intersection to find street signs. And from each plaza, you have three, five or more choices of streets like spokes on a wheel. There was no grid. And streets change names when the street bends. 

So you have to simply choose a street and walk; check the signs and your map at the next intersection; and, if you’re wrong, circle back and try again like a Choose Your Own Adventure book. I tried to pull out my map infrequently, so I wouldn’t attract a lot of attention. I did a lot of circling. On my next trip to Europe, I’ll be getting an eSIM.

Castello-Sfortesco

Castello-Sfortesco is a legit castle. Photos do it no justice. I believe that they make special sunlight just to set off the thick stone walls inset with tiles. 

The castle was once the residence of the ruling Visconti and Sforza families. It now houses several museums and art collections, including works by Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci. I spent quite a bit of time exploring the gardens and grounds, where there are still cannon balls and the remnants of a moat, before realizing that I wouldn’t see much of the inside if I didn’t move along. 

But that was okay. I was most fascinated by the construction of the castle fortress, the towers, the courtyards, the levels, and it was a beautiful sunny day. Allow more than a couple of hours if you’d prefer to see the indoor exhibits as well.

Castello-Sfortesco

Ambrosian Library

I used my hop-on hop-off pass to get from the castle to the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, a historic library in the Brera district near my hotel that’s home to a vast collection of manuscripts and artworks. The library was dedicated in 1609; it grew to include the Pinacoteca to house the art collection of its founder, Cardinal Federico Borromeo, and much more recently the Accademia, where classes on the Classics are held.

Please allow more time for this among your things to do in Milan than I did. I had just a half-hour or so before closing to zip through, past the stunning artwork. While I waited to enter, I had an epic view of the library that could have been straight out of Harry Potter. (Or perhaps it’s better to say that Harry Potter was inspired by the Biblioteca Ambrosiana?) As a bibliophile, I longed to spend a few days in that library. 

As it was, I soon was back outside. I lingered in the lit garden admiring the statues for a while, then walked home along the lit streets lining the park I’d crossed that morning. I spent the evening searching for and scoring a ticket online to see The Last Supper on the last evening of my trip.

Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana

Day 4

I wanted to explore more of central Milan. So I put miles on my feet this day, passing through the city’s famous fashion district as I walked from my hotel. 

The Porsche Store

This stop was more for my dad and my guy, though I’d written marketing materials for Porsche and wanted to pay a visit to the mecca — the new Porsche Studio in Milan. 

No one mistook me for a serious customer, so I wandered unimpeded, gawking at the history wall and the sleek vehicles before buying some souvenirs. 

Porsche Studio

The Galleria

Each time I was in this part of the city, I passed through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a stunning glass-roofed arcade filled with luxury shops and restaurants. Built in the nineteenth century, it’s Italy’s oldest shopping center and sometimes referred to as Milan’s living room, where people gather and spend time. Yet it’s also a bustling thoroughfare and home to boutiques such as Gucci displaying the very latest and finest in fashion and design. 

My budget is more REI clearance sale than Versace, but I smiled past the security guards and stepped inside each of the high-end boutiques in the main arcade, just for the experience. 

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

The Duomo

I’d passed it several times on the hop-on hop-off bus, but I hadn’t yet explored the confection featured in most photos of Milan: The Duomo.

I’d highly recommend scheduling a guided tour to see and comprehend the marvels of this cathedral. It was begun in 1386 and took six centuries to complete. The third largest church in the world, it includes an underground chapel, an underground archeological dig, mind-blowingly massive interior pillars supporting the stunning stained-glass windows and a rooftop filled with statues and terraces that you can access with your group. 

The tour is packed with truly fascinating details about the history, the construction and the church’s role within the city. I booked my tour for late afternoon so that I could be on the rooftop as the sun began to set; the views and the experience are unforgettable. I have at least 100 more photos.

Duomo di Milano

The parts of Milan that I’d seen were very clean, and my clients said it’s a safe city, which matched my experience. I encountered one hitch: The power went off in the restaurant where I stopped that evening for a classic Campari before my walk home…and I was using the bathroom when it went out. It was a single bathroom, and I was locked in for a minute in the dark. Fortunately, power was restored before I was too panicked. I decided this was my sign to return to my hotel.

Day 5

Today, I woke up early to visit Lake Como, a beautiful region about an hour north of Milan near the Swiss border. (Maybe you’ve heard of George Clooney? He has a place there.) I walked to Milan Central Station and took the train to Como San Giovanni, the station roughly ten minutes’ walk outside of the heart of the town.

The train was clean, fast and efficient. I sat near some young financiers heading on to Switzerland while feeling very sophisticated and slightly outclassed at the same time.

Lake Como

I was navigating by map, so it was only luck that led me through the charming town to the waterfront, as I memorized landmarks along the way for my return. I asked around and found the express ferry that I wanted, a commuter boat that circulates among the villages nestled in the mountains around the lake. 

This day trip was a stark example of the difference between traveling in the off-season versus the high season. The boat made fewer trips during the winter and was mostly populated by students who use this as their school bus. I again felt very sophisticated to be on a boat on Lake Como and yet very outclassed by the teenagers around me. 

Bellagio

I was there to see Bellagio, a village that exceeds your imagination when you imagine a village of colorful old buildings and cobblestone streets rising from the water into the hillside above. During January, much of the village is shuttered, I learned, so I strolled the sidewalks soaking up the scenery, then enjoyed a glass of red wine with complimentary chips at the one restaurant open near the waterfront. 

I soaked up the sun with the few other tourists who had made the same trip, marveling at being there and imagining it packed with beautiful people during the summer. Those of us who were there for the day bonded when the boat was late making its return, as we watched the sun set on the lake and the fog roll in. It was good for photos and camaraderie, but a little unnerving at the same time. 

The town of Como twinkled and glittered like a stream of sequins as we returned in the dark. I managed to follow my landmarks back to the station and catch a train back to Milan, where I hurried back to my hotel from the station in the dark.

Lake Como

Day 6

Because my trip to Lake Como was long, I left this final day relatively unplanned. There were just a few things to do in Milan left on my list. I was glad that it was a light day, because it was cold and rainy. 

Museum of Science and Technology

I walked a long way to the Museum of Science and Technology. I wanted a lesson on one of Milan’s most famous citizens. 

Most people know that Leonardo da Vinci was brilliant. But every time that I visit an exhibit about him, I’m stunned again by the extent to which he was a polymath. The Leonardo da Vinci galleries demonstrate his discoveries and advancements in art, flight, timekeeping (of special interest to me, as my dad was a watchmaker), anatomy, construction and more. Fascinating. If the weather is bad, this is a perfect addition to your list of things to do in Milan.

By this time I was growing tired, so I saw the rest of the massive museum — situated in the imposing and impressive ancient monastery of San Vittore al Corpo — in the way that most people probably see museums: Instead of reading every placard and viewing every object, I walked through the halls, stopping to read more when something caught my eye. 

Museo Nazionale Scienza e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci

San Maurizio

Some of the best things to do in Milan are the least expected. Down the street from the museum of science and technology is San Maurizio, a part of the Benedictine convent. Nondescript from the outside, the church is covered inside with breathtaking sixteenth-century frescos on every inch that have earned it comparisons to the Sistine Chapel. 

Be sure to allow ample time to study the intricate paintings and read how they’ve been restored. Go through the small doorway to the other half of the church as well, where the nuns sat separated from the public, for more jaw-dropping art.

San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

Da Vinci’s Last Supper

I’d managed to book tickets online while in Milan for a chance to see da Vinci’s Last Supper — another perk of traveling in the off-season. I may have paid more than prebooking, but I was just so grateful for this once-in-a-lifetime chance. I’d strongly recommend securing a time slot as soon as you know that you’re going to visit; it’s a highlight among things to do in Milan.

Access was very tightly controlled, so participants were required to wait outside until it was our turn to enter the small vestibule, where we were prepared by a guide. Once the group at our time slot was gathered and settled and the exterior doors were closed, we were sent in smaller groups through an air purification chamber to remove dust and other particles from our beings that might harm the delicate, flaking fresco.

Finally it was my turn to enter into the former dining hall of the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church that I visited at the start of my trip. I was awestruck in so many ways. 

First, the room in which the painting is housed is smaller than I expected. The ceilings are high, but the space itself is a narrow rectangle, much like you’d expect for a centuries-old dining hall. It’s barren but for the Last Supper on one wall and the fresco of the Crucifixion that Giovanni Donato painted on the opposite wall in 1495, with a few benches in between.

Painted on plaster, the Last Supper is in a constant state of disintegration, and it has been since it was completed in 1498. In fact, it was deemed so unimportant that in the 1600s, a doorway was cut underneath the fresco, which is situated midway up the wall, taking out Jesus’ feet. 

All the same, it was a glorious sight, having been restored multiple times since, using copies of the painting by Leonardo da Vinci’s assistants as guidance. It was a pinch-me moment to be right there in a hushed room gazing at a work as old, as well-known, as technically impressive and sacred as the Last Supper in Milan. 

Cenacolo Vinciano 

Day 7

After walking a half-mile from my hotel to Milano Centrale with my luggage, then to the very farthest train platform for the trip to Milano Malpensa Airport, I discovered that the Italians *really* didn’t want me to leave — check-in for international flights was in the farthest separate section of the airport; then, security was in the opposite quadrant; then, passport control was in another; finally, the gates were in Switzerland. (Not really, but I felt sure I’d gotten 43,628 steps in by 9:24 a.m.) Allow plenty of time.

I met one of the flight attendants from that morning’s trip by chance in the Museum of Science and Technology the day before. She was SO kind as to share the flight was rather empty, and so when I saw her that morning, she helped me arrange a whole empty row, so I could put up my feet during the long haul. 

I didn’t sleep much in Milan. It could have been the lack of soundproofing and the loud voices on the streets when the bars emptied and the workers began. It could have been fibromyalgia (for which I took extra medication, plus Aleve and Biofreeze and such because I *hurt*). It could have been the eight-hour time difference and jet lag. Or walking miles and miles. All of the above? 

Sleepiness would hit me each night like a freight train at about 7 p.m., but then I was awake just a few hours after going to bed at 10. Yet if I didn’t keep walking all day I would doze off. So I was ready for a long flight with space in which to stretch out.

Milan was every bit as marvelous as it sounds when you imagine it. Even more, it felt safe, bright, friendly and, despite its world-class status, surprisingly authentic. Winter in Paris still felt to me like a city oriented for tourists; Milan, however, seemed to be a place for its residents in the winter, and even as a solo female traveler, I felt comfortable and confident. My memories of this trip are tinted with a bit of magic — quiet and sunsets and awe.

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My visit to Norway was unique to my regular trip planning. I was going to see someone I hadn’t seen in 34 years. Check out Time Travel to Norway to read about how we met and why I visited. I had initially planned to visit in the summer of 2021, but Covid restrictions didn’t allow it to happen. So, in the fall of 2022, I decided I was tired of waiting for the perfect time to visit and booked a quick trip. I had a few days in three different cities: Oslo, Fredrikstad and Tromso. This was a small sampler of Norway, and I can’t wait to go back and explore further!

I decided to visit Norway during the holiday season.

Flights in December were about as inexpensive as I would get flying out of my hometown. December is one of the cheaper times to fly to Norway, so if you want to visit Norway, remember that shoulder season and off-season are more affordable. I managed to get a round-trip ticket for $800. I used accumulated points from my Chase Sapphire Preferred card, bringing my total down to $160 out of pocket. 

Let’s get into it! My eight-day visit to Norway: Oslo, Fredrikstad and Tromso

Oslo, Norway

Transportation into Oslo:

Take the FlyToGet express train to Oslo Central Station for 230 Kor ($22.50). The train platform is easy to find at the airport. The train takes about twenty minutes from the airport to Oslo Central Station. There are kiosks to purchase your ticket, and the instructions are in Norwegian and English. There are four well-marked platforms; go to the platform that matches your ticket. The train is warm, comfortable, clean and fast, with room to stash your luggage. You can take the regular train for about one-third of the cost, but it takes more time, and you can also take the bus. I always recommend Google Maps; the public transportation feature is usually accurate.

From Oslo Central Station, my hotel was a nine-minute walk straight up Karl Johans Gate. Karl Johans gate is Oslo’s main boulevard leading from the Central Station through the central shopping district and up to the Royal Palace. The street is a pedestrian walkway, and the famous Grand Hotel is along this route.

Where to stay in Oslo:

Julianne stayed at Comfort Hotel Express on her visit to Norway and loved it. I chose Hotel Bristol. I was only staying two nights and splurged a little for the luxury. I used points from my Capital One Venture card and paid nothing out-of-pocket. Hotel Bristol is a historic hotel right off Karl Johans Gate. It is centrally located, equidistant from Central Station and The National Theatre station, and near many sights that I wanted to see. The hotel’s interior is classicly beautiful, and my room was stunning and comfortable. I’ve never slept in a more comfortable bed. I was in a room with a view of the courtyard, and my room had a little balcony. The hotel has several restaurants and bars so that you can eat on-site in style; there is also a pub next door, which I discuss below.

Where to eat in Oslo:

Bristol Pub: This is the place for a great smash burger and fries with a cold beer. It’s very clean and has excellent service and has fantastic burgers. This was precisely what I needed after a long day of traveling. It was convenient and very nice next door to the Hotel Bristol.

Mulligans Irish Pub: Across the street from Hotel Bristol, I popped in for a beer, and the vibe was relaxed. I didn’t have anything to eat, but if you are looking for a chill place for a drink in the early evening, it’s friendly and relaxed.

Olivia Østbanehallen: This place is beautiful, and the Italian food was fantastic. From their website: “In the hall of Oslo’s first railway station, Olivia Østbanehallen is located between the vaults from 1854 and the square facing the opera and the fjord. The restaurant has a magnificent interior, with a whopping 14 meters under the roof.” I think I gawked at the interior as much as I enjoyed the food and wine! We were lucky to get a table; I’d be sure to make a reservation.

What to do in Oslo:

I always suggest starting with a free walking tour of the city you are in. This is a great way to learn about the city and get familiar with the area. My friend Sverre showed me around, but Free Tours Oslo has great reviews!

Deichman Bjørvika: This library is an architectural wonder. If you are an architecture buff, this is a must-see. But more than that, you can take in breathtaking views, enjoy the cafe or bar and wander around, taking in the art, open spaces and sense of community. It feels more like a community meeting space than a library, but it is both. 

Oslo Opera House: Another fantastic piece of architecture, the Oslo Opera House is stunning and home to the Oslo Opera and Ballet. Take in the views of the Oslofjord from the roof, which you can traverse on foot. Remember to look at it from behind; it looks like a giant ice cube at night! If you have the time, treat yourself to a performance.

Museums: I love museums and spend a lot of time in them when I travel. Since this trip was more about connecting with an old friend, I didn’t make it to any this trip, but I need to take a trip back to check them out. Julianne writes about several of them in her wonderful piece, “Visiting Norway Solo.”

Holmenkollen Ski Museum & Tower: High above the city is the Holmenkollen Ski Museum and Tower. This ski hill has a fascinating history. It was first used as a ski jump in 1892! It collapsed in 1927, was rebuilt, and rebuilt again ahead of the winter Olympics in 1952. It’s been torn down and rebuilt for a fourth time which is the structure you see today!

The Visit Oslo Website is a fantastic resource, and I learned so much about Oslo before I went from their website. Not all travel bureaus have websites as well thought out and informative as theirs. I suggest you check it out!

Fredrikstad, Norway

I rode with Sverre in his car to Fredrikstad, but you can also take the train. The train ride is just over an hour, as is the car ride. You can book tickets for the train in advance on their website, VY.NO and one way is approximately 24.50 USD or 249 Kr.

I stayed with my friend in his home. They rent the basement out as an Airbnb, but I was staying as their guest. The basement apartment is lovely. Cozy, comfortable bedroom, living room with TV, kitchen and a private bathroom. All with heated floors, which I was in love with. If you would like to book his place, you can do so on Airbnb. This is not an affiliate link; it’s a lovely place to stay! 

Where to eat in Fredrikstad:

Cafe Magenta: My only restaurant meal in Fredrikstad was at Cafe Magenta. I had the vegetarian plate, which was very, very good. You’ll need to use Google Translate with the menu, as it is only in Norwegian. I used google translate a lot in Norway. While most people speak English, often menus were not in English. Menus in the local language usually indicate they are cooking for the local population and are not a “tourist” destination. This means the food is typically better — and cheaper. 

I also had several good local beers here, including a fantastic stout. Finally, if you’ve never used Google Translate, I recorded a short video on how to use it! 

What to do in Fredrikstad:

Old Town Fredrikstad: The star-shaped old town of Fredrikstad was founded in 1567 and is the best-preserved fortress town in northern Europe. The quarter is home to multiple galleries, restaurants and, of course, the people who live there. It’s so charming. Stop into the local shops, check out the art galleries or grab a coffee. 

You can take a free ferry over to the new side of Fredrikstad. The promenade along the River Glomma is busy with families, boats, and outdoor seating at the many restaurants during the summer. There were people on a Sunday in the middle of December, but not many of them! However, it was still fun to walk along the river, and the ferry ride was quite pretty. 

Most of my time spent in Fredrikstad was with my friends, enjoying their home and hospitality and meeting their friends. 

Travel from Fredrikstad to Tromso:

After my time in Fredrikstad, I took the train back to Oslo and spent one night at an underwhelming hotel in central Oslo, not far from the Bristol Hotel, where I had such a pleasant stay. I woke up very early and walked to Central Station to catch the train to the airport. I started feeling under the weather when I woke up, but I attributed it to a few late nights and a lot of wine with my friends. 

I took the FlyToGet from Oslo Central Station back to the airport. Thankfully I left plenty of extra time as I went to the wrong platform. One of the train workers directed me to where I needed to go, and I made it to the correct train on time. 

Security at Oslo airport was fast and efficient, and I was quickly on my way to my gate. I had initially booked a flight on Flyr Airlines for around $130, but they canceled some routes, and I had to rebook on Norwegian Air for almost triple the cost. I had structured my trip around that flight, so that was frustrating. They did alert me and refunded my money promptly, but it left me buying a last-minute flight that cost me a lot more.

Tromso

Transportation into Tromso:

You can take the Airport Express bus to the city center of Tromso for around $12. I paid right on the bus. The bus is outside the airport departure doors, but there isn’t great signage. Just walk outside and look for the big red bus.

Where to stay in Tromso:

I stayed at Radisson Blu, and I will tell you all the reasons I loved it. Unlike most of my trips, I spent a lot of time in my room because I was, indeed, sick.

The Airport Express drops off and picks up across the street from the Radisson, making it very convenient. The views from my room were spectacular, a lovely view of the water that surrounds the island. 

The pictures don’t do it justice. The window was almost 5 feet tall and opened slightly at the top to let in the cold, crisp air, which was quite refreshing when I was feverish.

The breakfast at the hotel was one of the best I’ve had when traveling. A buffet but so nicely done. I ate so much fresh fruit, drank fresh juices, hot coffee and plenty of options, including traditional Norwegian foods, typical European breakfasts and some traditional American breakfast foods. Because I was sick, I went early when few people were there, wore my mask and was extremely conscientious about using hand sanitizer when getting my food.

The hotel also has a men’s and women’s sauna – not co-ed—two things to note here. When I walked in, the woman in the sauna was fully nude. Not wanting to appear as a prudish American, I walked out, removed my suit and walked back in with my towel around me. It wasn’t until later, when I was walking down a hallway and, later on, the street, that I realized you could see inside the sauna from multiple places. The sauna has a giant window, and I thought maybe it had a two-way film on the outside so you couldn’t see in. I was incorrect. So, that happened. Regardless, it was a nice amenity to an already great hotel. 

What to do in Tromso:

In Tromso in December, there is no full daylight. However, around 10:30 a.m., it lightens to twilight and stays that way until around 2 p.m, and then it is fully dark again by 3 p.m.. 

The Visit Norway website is where I got most of my information for all three regions and found the excursions I had booked for Tromso. There are so many tours and things to do. Want to hang with reindeer? Visit the Sami? A snowmobile adventure, snow-shoeing, or chasing the Northern Lights? Tromso has endless possibilities. Trip advisor also has great recommendations!

However, since I got very sick, I canceled my planned excursions. I felt awful and worried about getting other people sick. I had booked a spa day on a Viking ship where I would get a massage, sit in the sauna and jump into the sea. I had also booked a boat tour to see the Northern Lights one evening. I was disappointed to cancel but knew I had to try and rest and recuperate.

What to do when you are sick on a trip:

Getting sick when you are traveling is never fun. The best thing you can do is get as much rest as possible and hope it passes quickly.

Locate a grocery: I’ve only gotten sick on a handful of trips, but my first stop is always the grocery! I like to load up on healthy items I can keep in my room. I loaded up on juices, ginger shots, fresh fruit, a salad and three containers of spicy ramen. My room had a hot water kettle so I could add boiling water to my ramen cups. As a note, there was no mini-fridge in my room, which I didn’t realize until I returned. I also bought a large bottle of water so I could stay hydrated. I usually only use my Mira water bottle, but I lost it on my first day in Oslo. 

What to know about pharmacies: The nice thing about pharmacies in many European countries is they are everywhere; look for the bright green cross. You can always talk with the pharmacist if you need specific medication. I was searching for any cold medicine I’m used to getting in the U.S., but the only thing I could get was a homeopathic throat lozenge and some “cough” tablets which I think were also homeopathic. They did help my dry cough and sore throat more than I expected. I wanted to dry up my runny nose but could not procure anything that would dry me up. Medications are dispensed differently than in the U.S. Make sure you have travel insurance in case you get gravely ill.

But look at these views.

I spent the next 24 hours in bed with a fever, drinking juices, eating ramen, and watching Brooklyn 99 on the giant TV at the end of my bed. 

The next day I felt a little better and gathered enough energy to walk around Tromso a little bit; I dipped into a few stores and bought some lovely art. Then, I walked up a big hill and took in the scenery. That exhausted my energy for the day, and I returned to bed. At least I had a lovely view.

There are so many things you can do in Tromso, and I didn’t get to do any of them, but I’m still glad I got to see this charming little town. There is so much I want to explore in Norway; when I get back, I think I need a few weeks. I want to drive the whole country, explore the fjords, and revisit Sverre and his family!

The Trip Home

I flew back to Oslo and stayed at the Radisson Red, a four-minute walk from Oslo airport. I loved the decor, it was clean and quiet, and the food in the restaurant on site was very, very good. The short and sheltered walk to the airport was especially nice in the biting cold.

Learn from my mistakes – again.

My trip home was a comedy of errors, probably brought on by my groggy state. When I landed at Heathrow Airport, I took a wrong turn and ended up in baggage claim instead of at the gate for my next plane. You might be wondering what in the world I was doing, but I was so tired and sick, and I didn’t follow the correct signs. It was a complete debacle. I couldn’t figure out if I needed to grab the bag I had checked for my return to the U.S. (I didn’t.) I tried asking several baggage claim people, but no one was very helpful. I finally found my way to departures and waited in the long security line. I purchased three bottles of Norwegian gin at duty-free in Oslo and was so stressed out wondering if I’d be able to get them through security without having to check another bag. Even though the line was very slow, the woman working my line was friendly and handled my odd situation well. They unpacked my gin, scanned it, repacked it, and I was on my way. I am so glad I had a three-hour layover, or I would have missed my flight. 

When I landed in Chicago, I used my Global Entry card to slide through customs and then waited 35 minutes for my checked bag to arrive.

When you are flying back from an international flight, you will not only have to go through customs and collect any checked bags, but you will need to recheck your bag to continue on your way to your final destination.

At ORD in Chicago, you have to leave the International Terminal (F) and go to Terminal A to recheck your bag and then go to your final terminal for boarding; in my case, Terminal B. This is precisely why I book my flights through the airlines. You are much more likely for them to leave the appropriate time between flights to manage the time needed for moving from international to domestic flights. I typically don’t check a bag, but I checked a duffel of dirty laundry to make room for the art and booze I bought to fit in my carry-on bags. Priorities.

The hassle of multiple connections can wear on you, and it’s almost brutal when you are traveling while sick. As a note, I took as many precautions as possible since I was traveling sick. I wore my mask nonstop and used a scarf as a second layer. I washed my hands and used hand sanitizer frequently.

Despite the sickness and mishaps on the way home, I had a lovely visit to Norway and look forward to returning. If you have been considering it as a destination, I highly recommend this beautiful country.

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Taking the ferry to Vieques is an affordable and efficient way to get to that lovely island. There are a few things to know to make this journey seamless. Let’s get to it!

Why take the ferry? Cost is a significant factor. A round-trip flight can cost several hundred dollars, and a round-trip ferry ride is less than $10. (We’ll break it down at the end.)

Essential Details for the Ferry to Vieques

Booking your passage on the ferry to Vieques

The ferry to both Culebra and Vieques departs from Ceiba. Your best friend will be the Puerto Rico Ferry website and the City Experiences app in the app store. 

You should book your ferry tickets as soon as they are available. The ferries are used by residents and tourists alike, so don’t expect just to show up and grab a ticket. You can book your tickets seven to eight weeks in advance. The schedule changes throughout the year, and some passages are cargo only. The ferry passage times might be limited when you’re there, so read the website carefully.

The cost for adults is $2 each way and $1 for seniors and children. Taking luggage, coolers, bikes or other items can cost $1 to $2.

You can’t take a rental car on the ferry to the island. Check out our Eight Day itinerary for more info about renting a vehicle in Vieques!

Plan on arriving at the ferry terminal an hour before your boarding time. Your boarding time and your departure time are also an hour apart. Boarding closes 10 minutes before departure. 

How to get to the ferry terminal in Cieba

Where you stay in Puerto Rico may determine how you choose to get to Ceiba and can also affect whether you fly or take the ferry. 

If you’re staying in Old San Juan or near that side of the island, it’s an hour’s drive to Ceiba. You have three options:

1. Take a taxi to Ceiba: From Old San Juan to Ceiba is approximately $100, give or take, each way.
2. Rideshare to Ceiba: From Old San Juan to Ceiba is approximately $60 to $100 each way, depending on the time of day and availability.
3. Rent a car and drive to Ceiba.

Or you can fly straight to Vieques or Culebra from San Juan Airport: $200 to $350 on average per person for a round-trip flight.

We chose to rent a car. We rented a small SUV through Enterprise for $345 for seven days. 

Renting a car gave us the flexibility to see a bit more of Puerto Rico, such as El Yunque, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Parks System, and Fajardo, a cute little seaside town not far from Ceiba, where we stayed the night before our ferry ride to Vieques took a bio-bay tour. For all of the details, check out the full itinerary of our trip to Puerto Rico. 

The Ceiba Ferry Terminal – Taking the ferry to Vieques, PR

After we left Fajardo, we grabbed a quick coffee and breakfast at a cute little cafe and headed to the ferry terminal. We chose the 1 p.m. departure, and because I am a strict rule follower, we planned to arrive at 11 a.m., an hour before boarding. In retrospect, we probably could have come later, but I wasn’t sure where we needed to park or how busy it would be. My reasoning for arriving early, as they advise on the website, is that we would be assured our spot if we are checked in for the passage early. What can I say — I really wanted to get to Vieques! 

The ferry terminal is easy to find via any map app. If you’re taking a taxi or ride share, this is where they will drop you off. If you drive, you’ll pass the ferry terminal and keep going about a quarter of a mile down the road. You’ll see a parking lot on your right-hand side; turn right into that lot. There was a tent at the entrance, where we paid for parking. We paid with a credit card; the cost was $30 for two nights. There was ample parking. 

A shuttle runs from the parking lot to the ferry terminal, or you can walk if you are so inclined. We waited for the shuttle. The shuttle didn’t have a lot of room for luggage, so keep that in mind. The shuttles seemed to run with frequency. Since we were there so early, we had no problems getting on the shuttle and getting to the ferry.

The ferry terminal in Cieba has restrooms (the nicer portable ones in a trailer, like at some music festivals) and vending machines for snacks and drinks. There is plenty of seating and lots of shade. If you’re a visitor, you will sit in the visitor section. Residents have their own section, and they’ll board first. You’ll line up your suitcase with everyone else’s and grab it before you board. There are plenty of people working who can help you out. 

An hour before departure, they will begin boarding, again, starting with residents. Once residents are on board, then the visitor’s board. 

I had my digital tickets in my Apple Wallet and also in the City Experiences app. They scanned without issue. Another reminder: If you try to buy tickets at the terminal, you’re not guaranteed passage. Planning ahead will help ensure you don’t run into issues.

As you board the ferry, you’ll be directed to the luggage hold, which is a small room where everyone puts their bags and other gear. 

There is seating on the lower or upper level, which is enclosed and air-conditioned. There is no eating or drinking on the ferry. There are restrooms. 

The passage takes about a half hour to get to Vieques and goes quickly. 

When it is time to disembark, you wait to get your bag and follow the stream of people off the ferry. 

When you arrive in Vieques, the ferry terminal is quite crowded with people. If you plan on getting a taxi or have scheduled a car, the road is quite congested. 

We booked an ATV in Vieques, which I highly recommend. Driving around the island on an ATV is a little nerve-wracking, but many people do, and we had fun with it!

Vieques Ferry Terminal

The Vieques ferry terminal is smaller but has restrooms and a bar next door. Before returning our ATV, we grabbed some beers and snacks at a gas station and cracked them open at a picnic table next to the terminal. It was a nice place to sit until boarding, with a view of the water, chickens and roosters running around keeping us company. 

So how much time does the ferry take?

Parking and taking the shuttle or walking to the ferry terminal: 15–30 minutes

Presenting a ticket and entering the boarding waiting area: 5–10 minutes, depending on the crowd

Waiting for boarding (because we arrived super early): 35 minutes

Boarding: 45 minutes

Ferry passage: 30 minutes

Disembarking: 15 minutes

Approximately 2 hours and 45 minutes

It took us approximately 3.5 hours to get from our accommodation in Fajardo to our accommodation in Vieques.

Flying might be a little faster, but for the cost difference and the added experience of taking the ferry, I will always choose that $2 ticket! 

Want more information about Puero Rico? Check out our Eight Day Itinerary to Puerto Rico, Our packing list for Puerto Rico and 13 Tips for your trip to Puerto Rico.

• Top Tips for Choosing a Hotel on a Budget
• How To Get Comfortable With Solo Travel – 14 Ideas To Get You Started!
• How to Use Google Flights and Save Money
• Packing for a Hot, Humid Destination
• Travel Planning 101: The Ultimate Travel Planning Checklist

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_{Although we strive to provide the most current information, bars, restaurants and attractions mentioned may close at any time, operate with a limited menu or reduced hours, or have takeout options only. We recommend checking individual websites for operating hours and updates before visiting.}

_{The views expressed on this website represent the opinions of the authors; we encourage you to form your own opinions and confirm any facts.}

The traffic whizzed by as I balanced my luggage in the center island of a busy Barcelona street. I struggled to remain upright against the waves of passing people and strained to read the pretty but tiny street signs posted discretely on the sides of buildings.

I was tired from a three-hour drive from Fort Wayne to Chicago, a kinda filthy shuttle ride from the car park, a delayed takeoff and a nine-and-a-half-hour flight to Milan. My long trip also included a two-and-a-half-hour flight to Madrid, a hike to recheck my luggage, two more hours in the air, a sweaty bus ride, teeming streets, a wrong turn in the Metro and luggage that grew heavier with every step.

But Europe is magic. And I was there, in the heart of one of its cosmopolitan cities, just a few weary streets away from a hot shower and a new pair of shoes.

I had a long list of the top things to do in Barcelona, and I could almost feel the tingle already.

***

With a metro-area population of 5.7 million, Barcelona is second in size to Madrid, Spain’s capital, which I had visited a few months earlier. But it is foremost in its corner of the country, Catalonia. This proud and independent region, in a forced marriage with the rest of Spain, even maintains its own language, Catalan. In most of Spain, the Spanish is Castillian, which is a bit different from the Latin American Spanish commonly heard in the United States. In Spain, gracias sounds like gra – thi – as. And Catalan is yet another variation of the language. Any attempt at Spanish, however, will go a long way.

In fact, though Barcelona relies heavily on its tourist trade, visitors will enjoy their stay far more if they learn some fundamental Spanish. Spaniards at the strictly tourist sites — Starbucks, for example — can speak basic English. But who wants to go to Barcelona for a mocha frappacino when you can have a thick, rich café amb llet (which is café con leche in Madrid/coffee with milk in the States)?

My traveling companion and sister, Valerie, majored in German, so it was up to me por hablar español un poco. While no one mistook me for a native, I did earn a measure of grace for trying.

***

The shuttle bus from the airport, a bargain at just a few euros, unceremoniously dumped its mighty load near the fountain at Plaça de Catalunya, in the heart of the city. Fortunately, our hotel was just eight or so blocks away. We found west with the setting sun, stumbled through the crowds in the unseasonably warm April afternoon and, after a dash into a farmacia for some forgotten razors, dragged our bags to the Hotel Europark, a fairly clean tourist-class hotel with private baths near L’Eixample, the newer extension of Barcelona’s historic core.

We piled into one of the teeny-tiny lifts, similar to what I’d encountered in Madrid. A little outline of a person on the keypad lights up to show how close the load is to capacity. We laughed as the two of us and our bags filled the tiny man halfway.

After a shower, our spirits restored, Valerie and I ventured into the warm night, pleased to discover we were perfectly situated for all of the top things to do in Barcelona. Our hotel was just four blocks east of Passeig de Gràcia, which, along with the parallel street La Rambla de Catalunya, forms the spine of L’Eixample, the “Extension” district constructed in 1231 as Barcelona overflowed every nook and cranny of the Ciutat Vella, the old city.

One of L’Eixample’s famous sites became our landmark. At the corner of our street, Carrer Aragó, and the Passeig de Gràcia sprouts Casa Batllò, a residential project designed by quirky and brilliant architect Antoni Gaudí at the turn of the century and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Often referred to as “gaudy,” Gaudí latched on to innovations in building materials and construction techniques to incorporate shapes and embellishments representing nature into the very structure of his works. His presence in Barcelona is inescapable.

This former home, now open to the public, was lit to accentuate its rippling balconies, rolling façade and glittering mosaics. It’s known to locals as la casa dels ossos (house of bones) or casa del drac (house of the dragon). To us, it was the Mushroom House; it and the Burberry store on the opposite corner always told us when we’d reached our street.

We stopped to gape for a bit at the sight, then strolled down the street with the streams of other locals and tourists, enjoying the mild night and the sense of simmering energy. It was nearly 10 p.m. Barcelona time, appropriate there for dinner but late — or early or something — for we tired travelers. We ducked into the first comfortable tapas bar we saw, where it turned out no one spoke a word of English.

I managed to secure a vino tinto (red wine) for myself and a vino blanco (white wine) for Valerie. A sweet waitress took pity on us and gave us the pintxos plate, sort of an appetizer sampler. I tried to translate for my sister as we shared the seafood and sausage bites filled with cheese and cream.

We took the edge off our hunger, then went in search of Catalonia’s famous cava (aka Champagne, if it were from that region in France). A glass of bubbly and some tiramisu at a decidedly touristy tapas bar — this host spoke English — and we were ready to quit for the very long day.

Our First Day in Barcelona

Few things are as exciting and full of possibility as a fresh, sunny morning in a foreign city. The crisp air and blue skies served to outline the amazing architecture down every narrow, winding street the next morning. Beauty and function were equally important to the architects of the old, colorful buildings, and the current shopkeepers and residents uphold the standard with lush ivy and tangles of flowers dangling from balconies and windows.

Many there started their day with a pastry and a café con leche, and who was I to argue? Memories of a croissant con chocolaté from my trip to Madrid propelled me into a nearby café where trays of fresh bread were emptied into the glass cases every few minutes. The flaky crust with chocolate core and creamy coffee doused with sugar may not have been the breakfast of champions, but we would torch every last carb with hours of walking ahead.

It’s no secret that in many European cities, residents walk everywhere. In the congested streets, tiny cars seemed outnumbered by mopeds. The Metro, the underground subway system, zipped into stations throughout the city every few minutes. Even easier, however, and way more interesting is walking — by far one of the best things to do in Barcelona.

We set out with the Catedral as a destination and whatever we came to along the way as a bonus. Despite its age, beauty and charm, Barcelona is a busy, working city, so we walked as briskly with the crowds as we could while gawking.

As would happen all week, we stumbled across another destination on the way to our first. Meandering down a picturesque, brick-paved alley where teens bounced a soccer ball over and around parked mopeds, we rounded a curve to come face-to-carved-face with a triangular corner of La Palau de la Música Catalana.

Though it would appear much older, the massive La Palau de la Música Catalana concert hall was wedged into the Ciutat Vella at the turn of the century. At its point, the façade erupts into stone carvings of classic men and women. The walls that stretch in either direction are lined with balconies, arches, columns, mosaic, busts, finials and every other manner of elaboration.

We stopped to inquire about visiting, but tickets to tour the popular destination must be purchased days in advance. We paid to return Thursday, then ventured on toward the catedral.

***

Few things will prepare your jaw for its descent to the floor when you step into a European cathedral. Visiting churches was one of my favorite things to do in Barcelona.

Though to me it seemed not quite as elaborate as the cathedral in Tolédo, south of Madrid, Barcelona’s seat of the Catholic faith, the Catedral de Barcelona, still is a breathtaking sight. As we entered the cool, dim vastness, we had to pause to absorb the sights around us.

Before us was the main altar, massive Gothic columns soaring in rows along the approach to the elevated platform. To reach it, one passed through the walled choir, where intricate wooden figures and designs — no two the same — wrapped over and around and above the carved and painted seats.

Steps leading up to the altar are matched by steps leading below the altar, where a sepulcher is visible. The walls of the cathedral are lined with ornate chapels dedicated to various saints, each dripping with bronze and gold and statuary and gemstones, many holding the mausoleums of bishops.

We spent hours admiring the craftsmanship of the interior, the lush gardens in the cloister, the mystery of the ancient temple and the view from the roof. By then, however, our croissants were long gone. It was time for siesta, the midafternoon break when shops close and restaurants fill for a leisurely lunch. It was time for el menú del día.

***

Siesta exemplifies the healthy, relaxed attitude toward life so cherished in Spain. At 2 p.m., most institutions shut down for two hours, their occupants filling café tables inside and out for the main meal of the day. Of all the things to do in Barcelona, this is one of the most authentic and relaxing.

El menú del día, or the menu of the day, is the most affordable and adventurous way to enjoy this cultural phenomenon. Restaurants set a fixed price, often 8 to 14 euros, for a beverage (wine is the common choice), first course, second course, bread and dessert. 

Again, most everything is in Spanish. Don’t be afraid! Most everything is delicious. It’s half the fun to order something you couldn’t guess at with three tries, then take bets on what will arrive on your plate. Chances are the first course will be some sort of pasta, vegetable or beans; the second course will be grilled meat, sausage or seafood; and your choices of dessert will include ice cream, flan or a layered cake. Nothing scary about any of that.

Ravenous, we stumbled into the first café with available seating, the jackhammer on the sidewalk outside only partially muted by the closed door. The gentleman who seated us, however, made us feel warmly welcomed, ushered us to a table near two businessmen soaking bread into the sauce on their plates and quickly brought us each our own bottle of our vino of choice. The jackhammer quickly faded into the background.

Portions were huge, so Valerie and I had plenty to share with each other. It was the perfect first of many opportunities to sit, sip, sample and relax in true Spanish fashion. We lingered over the wine, then wandered into the warm afternoon.

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We had many days ahead to visit sites and museums, but now it was time to shop, certainly one of the most popular things to do in Barcelona. The streets are lined with little tiendas waiting to be discovered. Shoes, clothes, ceramics, more shoes, more clothes. We drifted in, exchanged holas with the shopkeepers and drifted out, wherever something caught our eye.

We wandered up La Rambla, the broad boulevard filled with artists, musicians, street performers and vendors. Here we heard voices in every language, as mirthful tourists from around the world amplified the revelry emitted by the bars and cafes lining the street. We shopped ourselves right back to L’Exiample, where we found a table on a streetside terrace at which to sample tapas, assortments of finger foods whose ingredients again eluded us. It didn’t matter — it was all good.

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After a short rest at our hotel and a change of clothes, Valerie and I set out to experience another well-known side of Spanish culture: the nightlife. Because everything in Spain happens at a later hour, we waited until nearly 1 a.m. to go in search of Otto Zutz, a club on the northern edge of L’Exaimple.

It was late when we crawled into bed with heads full of the sights and sounds of that day and plans for the next. There were many, many art galleries, churches, architectural marvels, cafes and shops, so many things to do in Barcelona in the following four days.

As for the lack of sleep, I was younger then. (I’m glad I did it, but at 51, I’d be in bed before 1 a.m.). Barcelona is history and art and architecture and culture and fashion and fun and a passion for life. That magic was fuel for our days.

Top Things to Do in Barcelona

La Sagrada Família

La Sagrada Família is a must-see. Gaudí’s fantastic church has been a source of inspiration, ridicule and awe. The architect took over the project two years in, in 1884, and devoted his life to it, even living there for a time. Incredibly, the church still is under construction because it is financed solely by donations and other private sources. The structure is as whimsical as his residential projects; Gaudí’s love of nature is expressed in massive columns that erupt into stone treetops at the ceiling, for example. This site is crowded, and it’s noisy — men with hard hats are working away. Going to the top is breathtaking, but not for the faint of heart.

La Pedrera

Just down the street from Casa Batllò, our “Mushroom House,” is another Gaudí construction, La Pedrera. Tour a furnished example of one of the luxury apartments he designed, rethinking traditional techniques such as load-bearing walls to allow window access in every room of every apartment. The Gaudí historical exhibit in the fantastic attic is a glimpse into the architect’s brilliant mind, leaving one with a greater appreciation for his inventive genius. And the rooftop provides beautiful views of the busy streets below as seen through stone arches and behind chimney tops shaped like soldiers.

Parc Güell

His presence is inescapable. Gaudí turned his attention to nature when commissioned to build a park on a hill high above the city. It was a Metro ride and a very long, hot, uphill trip to get there, but we quickly cooled off under the lush canopies of blooming vines and trees in Parc Güell. Winding paths and stone stairs eventually lead to the architect’s home, open for tours. The best part of Parc Güell is a vast, sunny expanse surrounded by signature-Gaudí mosaic benches looking out over the city. There, musicians play, vendors sell scarves and trinkets, and happy visitors loll in the sun sipping icy beers.

Museu Picasso

It’s fascinating to watch Picasso’s talent blossom at Museu Picasso. The examples of what he accomplished as a teen can serve to make us all feel inadequate. It’s tricky to wind one’s way through the rooms in proper order; guides direct visitors at odd junctures in the mansions housing the museum. Follow their direction to get the best picture of an emerging master.

Museu Nacional D’Art de Catalunya

Though we visited Museu Nacional D’Art de Catalunya on a free day, it surprisingly was not very crowded. The palace in which the museum of Catalan artists is situated is a work of art itself; incredibly, it was constructed only in 1929. Huge wings devoted to types and time periods will challenge all but the most dedicated of art museum fans. We had visited the Joan Miró art museum earlier that day, so while we appreciated the spectacular exhibits, we also were grateful when closing time gave us a reason to quit reading placards and take a whirlwind tour.

Fundació Joan Miró

Far apart from the traditional, historic or Gothic exhibits elsewhere, the Fundació Joan Miró is colorful and completely contemporary. White walls and bright windows form the backdrop for the artist’s abstract designs in primary red, green, yellow and blue. I took home a postcard of Femme Rêvant de l’Evasion (Woman Dreaming of Escape), but the work that most amused me was a piece Miró created for a recluse: a single black line drawn on the wall.

The Museu Nacional D’Art de Catalunya and Fundació Joan Miró are within walking distance of each other in Montjuïc, a hilly, green portion of the city along the coast. The gardens that separate the two are worth a detour off the sidewalk. Consider taking a picnic. There were no restaurants in sight in the area, so if you see both museums in one day, your only other option is an itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny bikini sandwich in the Miró café.

Església de Santa Maria del Mar

While the cathedral inspired awe and La Sagrada Família inspired disbelief, Església de Santa Maria del Mar inspired prayer. The massive, 14th-century structure was cool, dark and echoing with the strains of a choir at practice. Simple stone walls and pillars soar to the heavens covered with the soot of centuries. A newer, peaceful chapel behind the altar drew tourists and parishioners to their knees.

Museu d’Història de la Ciutat

By the time we figured out where to go and what to see in the trio of museums that make up the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat, we had little time to explore the underground Roman city. We were still marveling over the half-walls and wine processing pools first carved two millennia ago when the guards started stalking us, closer and closer. I explained in halting Spanish that we still had 15 minutes before the facility closed; one replied that the rest of the museum was huge. Trying to get my 15 minutes’ worth, I peered over the rails as I picked up the pace — much to the men’s dismay. At last we gave up and simply skipped along the walkways that crisscross this ancient civilization, which was discovered during road construction in the 1930s. Nonetheless, we came away with a great understanding and appreciation of Roman culture and the settling of what became Catalonia.

Palau de la Música Catalana

While Gaudí used large, organic forms to represent nature in his designs, Doménech i Montaner designed a frilly flower garden in the Palau de la Música Catalana. Our lovely guide pointed out, in perfect English, every representation of blossoms from the stunning skylight to the floor. This turn-of-the-century palace was constructed for choral presentations, so additions and renovations to the stage were necessary to accommodate instrumental performances. A more recent expansion included a restaurant to the side and offices in a level just under the skylight, above the hall. Especially impressive were the powerful pipes of the towering organ.

The Waterfront

Barcelona is not a beach town, but it is on the sea. Our flight circled over the dark Mediterranean, whetting our curiosity. Though it was brisk the day we visited la playa, the sand was populated by families, and there were captains working on their boats. Remnants of the construction for the 1992 Olympics are visible here, including American Frank Gehry’s giant copper fish sculpture looking as if it will leap over buildings and into the blue. Restaurant terraces serving fresh seafood line the shore, interspersed with nightclubs that shake the streets until sunrise.

La Rambla

La Rambla is the spirit of tourist Spain, a constant celebration of food, drink, art and (sometimes shady) entrepreneurial enterprise. This broad boulevard leads from La Plaça de Catalunya on the north to the sea on the south, paved in the middle and populated by street performers, newsstands, floral vendors and artists (as well as pickpockets at times). The sides of the street are lined with taverns, tapas bars, restaurants and tourist shops. Here, the hubbub of many languages reaches a crescendo — don’t be surprised to suddenly understand a conversation by some English speakers nearby. Young, old, all are boisterous, bold and happy to be in Barcelona.

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Although we strive to provide the most current information, bars, restaurants and attractions mentioned may close at any time, operate with a limited menu or reduced hours, or have takeout options only. We recommend checking individual websites for operating hours and updates before visiting.

The views expressed on this website represent the opinions of the authors; we encourage you to form your own opinions and confirm any facts.

There’s a crunchy granola vibe in Traverse City, Michigan, even among the shiny happy families and visitors wandering the Saturday morning farmers’ market.

This hidden Midwestern gem had been on my radar for a long time. I’d been reading stories in food and wine magazines about visiting Traverse City. Friends who had visited raved about the wine, the bike riding and fall color. Sleeping Bear Dunes, just west of town, had even been voted Most Beautiful Place in America by viewers of Good Morning America in 2011. 

So I was excited to first visit Traverse City, this charming town up north, in the fall of 2013. And it has proven to be worth every single overwrought adjective. In fact, I’ve spent most summers there since.

This dual-natured community in the pinky finger of the mitten, as residents fondly refer to Michigan (look at a map of the state to know why), still wears a little bit of its old humility, as if some of the locals don’t really understand what happened to their small town. 

But it’s definitely on the map and for many reasons, not the least of which is Grand Traverse Bay, bigger than most lakes by a lot but still manageable by boat, with friendly beaches and cool little beach towns sheltered from wild and unpredictable Lake Michigan. Many people visiting Traverse City are there for the water. It’s deep and blue and ever-changing, sometimes calm and sparkling under the mega-watt sun, sometimes rollicking in the angry wind, sometimes frozen so solid that it becomes a shortcut by snowmobile from one side of the bay to the other. On summer evenings it’s a pool of black ink tossing soft waves under a velvet sky studded with a million brilliant stars. It lives and breathes, and everyone in Traverse City lives for a view of the bay. 

But you don’t need a boat to be smitten with the mitten. 

17 Things to Love About Visiting Traverse City, Michigan

1) Did I mention the food and wine? The region supports a mouthwatering array of agricultural goodness, including cherries — hello, National Cherry Festival — blueberries, peaches, vineyards full of grapes, fields of lavender, hops, herbs and many more fresh-off-the-land ingredients with which master chefs and average foodies can craft unique culinary delights. Some Chicago chefs have summer places in Northport, one of the little towns just bursting with charm on the Leelanau Peninsula stretching north of Traverse City’s West Bay.

2) Filmmaker Michael Moore also had a place near Traverse City, and every summer he still hosts the Traverse City Film Festival, rolling out the red carpet for stars from around the world. There’s good fun for the locals, too, with access to the opening night party and screenings on a catamaran in the bay, on the beach and of course in the two tiny but exquisite historic theaters that he’s outfitted with the best in seating and technology. (See No. 14 below.) It’s quite a hubbub for a wee city such as Traverse, but the town loves a good party.

3) In fact, there’s always a party in Traverse City. There are beer festivals, whiskey festivals, the aforementioned Cherry Festival with its jaw-dropping fireworks shows on the bay, music festivals, art festivals, wine festivals. During the winter, the town erects a ginormous (we’re talking five stories tall) Christmas tree right in the middle of one of the streets downtown; one year it closed the street to put up a sledding hill and a Ferris wheel for anyone willing to brave the wind off the bay at the top of the arc.

4) Summer is high time in Traverse City — the city swells from a population of around 15,000 (150,000 in the metro area) to nearly half a million during the National Cherry Festival — and it’s sweet, bright and fun. But there’s a winter draw, too, with miles of snowmobiling trails punctuated by spots where you can grab a hot toddy by the fireplace. If you don’t mind the bluster, the gray and the snow (they shovel the rooftops here), it can be a wonderfully quiet and cozy place in which to eat, drink and dig in. You can spend days combing through the four floors of Wilson Antiques (I found likenesses of my mom’s mixing bowls and my childhood books there) or grab a book and hit a coffeehouse for a hot beverage on a sofa. There are no lines and no crowds — only the hardy survive.

5) Over the course of several years’ worth of visits, I made it something of a mission to tackle the wine trails of Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula and chat with the good folks pouring samples behind the bars. Be warned: It will take weeks or even months of true effort to get through them all, working your way along the maps. But it’s an endeavor well worth the effort. Each has not only unique pours but also unique personality, and the locals you meet are a source of some of the most interesting conversation you’d ever hope to have. 

6) Traverse City is all about being outside. The Traverse Area Recreation and Transportation Trail, aka the TART Trail, winds from East Bay through town and all the way up to Sutton’s Bay on Leelanau Peninsula north of Traverse City. It’s a gorgeous paved walk or ride through deep woods, over burbling creeks and past rows of cherry trees, hops and grapevines. You can try stand-up paddleboarding in the bay, or kayak from Boardman Lake right through town (with a short portage to reach the river). Boating, biking, waterskiing, swimming, outdoor yoga, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, snowboarding…you can find the spot and the gear for all kinds of outside adventures when visiting Traverse City.

7) Drive up Old Mission Peninsula. Check out the lighthouse at the northern tip. There’s space to do a little walking around in the woods and on the sandy shore, so bring appropriate shoes. It’s also a great place to enjoy a picnic. Or, if you prefer a restaurant, we like the Jolly Pumpkin. Be sure to hit a few wineries on the way up and back. 

8) Spend some time checking out the shops on Front Street. You’ll find lots of clothing and home decor boutiques, souvenir shops, ice cream places, hard cider and whiskey tasting rooms, cherry treats and all kinds of other local businesses catering to Traverse City tourists. Cherry Republic is a great spot in which to sample cherry wines and cherry treats and pick up all manner of cherry-based souvenirs. 

9) Hit the beaches downtown. The West End beach features sand volleyball courts, picnic tables and boats docked for hanging out. Clinch Park, the beach area in the center of the shoreline downtown, has a children’s playground/splash pad, and you can rent stand-up paddleboards there. Really, each beach is just down the sidewalk from the other if you want to check out both. 

10) Head west to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, with miles of hikes and climbs in the trees and on the barren, windswept, sandy rim of the lake. The views are magnificent, and there are all types of trails — paved and not, in the woods and on the windswept hills. While you’re up there, check out Glen Haven Village, where you can see the historic boathouse, general store and blacksmith shop that served the area’s residents in the 1920s cannery era. Stop by the little town of Glen Arbor for dinner afterward.

11) Speaking of bikes, this is a great city for them. The TART Trail provides access to much of the city and Leelanau Peninsula along cherry orchards and lakes. We like to ride up to Hop Lot and grab a beer and a snack. Farm Club is another great stop — just note their limited days of operation.

12) Leelanau Peninsula offers lots of opportunities for exploration all along the famed M22 route. Historic Fish Town is cool for a bit of walking around and fishing in Leland on the Lake Michigan side. Northport is utterly charming, especially on Friday summer evenings when they have outdoor concerts by the marina and fire dancers afterward at the distillery up the road. I recently explored the Grand Traverse Lighthouse park on the very tip of Leelanau Peninsula; it requires an entrance fee, so save it for a day when you have lots of hiking time. And there are tons of wineries all over Leelanau.

13) If it’s raining, see a movie at the State Street Theater or the Bijou. In fact, both are great even if it’s not raining. They’re beautiful historic theaters with state-of-the-art design and sound, thanks to Michael Moore and a team of dedicated volunteers and donors. They’re works of art — be sure to look up in the State Street Theater, where the ceiling looks like a starry night sky.  

14) If it’s raining some more, check out the Grand Traverse Commons. It was once a progressive mental hospital back in the day when there was nothing up there. It’s been wonderfully restored into condos, shops, coffeehouses and more with a bakery, a winery and restaurants in the outbuildings. The Historic Barns Park nearby is a lush series of botanical gardens — schedule a free tour to see inside the buildings.

15) Kids might enjoy fishing at one of the marinas or kayaking on Boardman Lake while visiting Traverse City. You can try surfing with Sleeping Bear Surf and Kayak in Empire, parasailing and boat rental downtown, and there’s a tall ship that offers chartered sailing tours in the bay. Or head west and rent a kayak to float on the Platte River. (If you’re a relative newbie, start on the lower Platte to avoid the fast rapids.) 

16) Some of our favorite restaurants include Red Ginger’s amazingly fresh and flavorful menu with a sophisticated vibe; the Flap Jack Shack out by the mall for breakfast; Trattoria Stella for exceptional service and delicious fine dining; the food truck scene at Little Fleet on West Front Street for a festive atmosphere, beer and just about any kind of food…the list could go on. The Parlor is the best place for cocktails with atmosphere in Traverse City. Moomers is the yummiest ce cream ever — look for signs around town. You can even visit their dairy farm and take a tour during the summer. Barrio has delicious tacos and an easy, casual vibe.

17) On the Leelanau Peninsula, Sutton’s Bay, Northport, Leland, Glen Arbor and Empire welcome visitors with live music, freshly brewed hard cider and beer, boutiques stocked with locally made goods and dining choices ranging from burgers on picnic tables to fusion cuisine on white tablecloths. Go a little further and you’ll reach Charlevoix and Petosky, sporting their own brand of hip, artsy and interesting. This is the coast with the most, right along the fingertips of the Michigan mitten. 

18) Discover the islands that inspired the Legend of the Sleeping Bear. You can take a day trip to South Manitou Island on the Manitou Island Transit Ferry, which departs — exactly on time! — from Leland. Check out the National Park Service website to plan your visit carefully, because there’s only one trip there and one trip back each day, and you want to be on both unless you’re prepared for some primitive, bug-filled camping. You can explore the island on your own, but we highly recommend the historic farm and schoolhouse tours offered by the same family who runs the Manitou Island ferry. The history and the scenery are fascinating. Just be sure to bring sunscreen, bug spray and a chipmunk-proof picnic.

We think you’ll leave your heart in the mitten (so to speak). But don’t take our word for it. Go see TC. We dare you not to fall in love. Spend an afternoon swimming in the waves, sipping hard cider, perusing art and talking to people who craft it. Bike by the cherry trees and hike the sunny dunes. Spend an evening listening to the waves, watching the sun set, sipping some local wine and chatting with the person who made it. After visiting Traverse City,  you’ll be smitten with the mitten, too.

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Although we strive to provide the most current information, bars, restaurants and attractions mentioned may close at any time, operate with a limited menu or reduced hours, or have takeout options only. We recommend checking individual websites for operating hours, updates, and social distancing measures before visiting. The views expressed on this website represent the opinions of the authors; we encourage you to form your own opinions and confirm any facts.

This post likely contains affiliate links. If you shop or make a reservation through these links, we may make a small commission (for which we are very grateful!) at no extra cost to you. Not all links are affiliates, and we only suggest products and places that we have experienced.